With jaw-dropping views of Hong Kong’s skyline, thanks to its prime location on the Tsim Sha Tsui harbourfront, Nobu is a trendy and darkly lit Japanese restaurant frequented by tourists and chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s loyal fans alike. Nobu is done in shades of black and gold, with a variety of seating choices including seats at the sushi counter, cosy banquette booths and a private room located at the back of the restaurant. Be warned: this is not your typical tranquil Japanese restaurant. Every aspect of Nobu is resolutely modern, from the West Coast hip hop blaring out over the speakers to the new-style sashimi on its menu.

Nobu is known for his signature dishes, which combine traditional Japanese produce with South American – primarily Peruvian – influences. Some are inordinately successful: his yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno with thick slices of fatty yellowtail perfectly contrasted with tart ponzu, spicy jalapeno and coriander, still leaves its copycat versions in the dust. Another example of when Nobu’s fusion approach to Japanese cuisine really shines is a dish present on his autumn omakase menu: slices of seared snapper are placed inside a sea urchin shell and covered with uni, as well as just a sprinkling of shallot. The slightly smoky flavour of the snapper is just heavenly with the tang of fish sauce and sweet sea urchin. However, not all his dishes are so successful: another signature dish of rock shrimp tempura includes pieces of blandly seasoned shrimp encased in a chewy batter, sitting atop a warm and underdressed green salad. Sometimes, Nobu’s love of exotic sauces can overwhelm the quality produce he uses. Case in point is a thinly sliced wagyu beef, also showcased on autumn’s omakase menu: the beef is obviously of the highest quality, but it is hard to tell, slathered as it is with an overly generous amount of sesame sauce. We much prefer Nobu’s sushi and sashimi, which is where the ingredients are allowed to shine. The sea urchin sushi may be expensive (HK$300 for two pieces), but its generous portion and sweet flavours make this a worthwhile treat. Finally, for dessert, chocolate lovers should opt for the It Used to be a Brownie, a deconstructed (or “destructed” as it says on the menu) version of a chocolate brownie with crackle pops and maple walnut ice cream.

Award-winning sommelier Terence Wong has compiled an impressive wine list at Nobu of over 3,500 bottles and 350 labels. As befitting the lightness of Japanese cuisine, there is more of a focus on white wines as well as a good range of wines by the glass. Sake lovers will be impressed with 10 different labels of sake available, including Nobu’s own private label.

While the servers are knowledgeable about the menu and extremely friendly, it can be difficult to get their attention, perhaps due to the darkness of the restaurant. Also, a surprising number of amateurish mistakes were made: from a steak that was ordered rare but came well-done to a number of conversations between staff that are clearly audible to the customers. However, on the whole, service is attentive, with dishes religiously changed after every course, even if they hadn’t been used.

A meal at Nobu can vary widely on price, depending on what menu items are ordered. The signature eight-course omakase is priced at HK$888 while the premium seasonal version is priced at HK$1,288. Taking into account its views, the trendy ambience and high quality produce used at Nobu, this is not bad value for money.