Familiar surroundings once inside but access means crossing the largest casino floor in the world. Piped music such as Sinatra and lots of memorabilia enhance the ambience. Tables are spacious and seats comfortable. The kitchen is open and the chefs can be seen hard at work grilling steaks. Morton’s large bar is a pleasant place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail.

The menu is standard Morton’s fare which has stood the test of time. A complimentary loaf of onion bread greets each diner. Enormous salads are one way to commence but the chilled prime ocean platter is exceptionally fresh and good value (MOP425 for two). Highlight is the flavourful Alaskan king crab leg while the “colossal” shrimp and firm jumbo crabmeat are also excellent. The accompanying sauces such as freshly grated horseradish and perfect homemade mayonnaise are very good but somewhat superfluous, given the quality of the seafood. Moving on to the main event, surprisingly it was necessary to request the chariot with raw meats and seafood to be brought to the table. Choice is extensive with aged USDA and aged Australian beef in various cuts and sizes offered. Live lobster is also a possibility. The porterhouse, while flavourful, was stringy and difficult to cut. However, the Cajun ribeye steak is tender. Potato skins are a suitable accompaniment. An excellent dessert tray is presented at the table, but unless you are a cheesecake or cold crème brûlée aficionado it’s better to just ask for the dessert menu. Put on a few pounds by indulging in Morton’s legendary hot chocolate cake or a massive serving of Grand Marnier soufflé which is enough for two. Sabayon and whipped cream cater to American taste and can be overly sweet.

A definitive list of great Californian wines, many in magnums and double magnums, so there is no need to look further for a superb red but most are in the high price bracket. Unfortunately wines by the glass are not so well-chosen and finding a glass of drinkable white is limited. The selection of malt whisky and cognac is exemplary.

Some staff know their job and do it well whilst others seem rather “robotic”. Service can be perfunctory, unsmiling and at times inattentive. Better training is required.

Expensive. Three-course dinner for two with steak is MOP1,600.