On the 18th floor of The One in Tsim Sha Tsui, Miyabi opens to an elaborate Zen-inspired garden worthy of its name, which in Japanese means elegance. Glass, glittering golden tiles and the sound of flowing water from small fountains envelope the 2,000-square foot seating area. Teppanyaki and tempura bars occupy the two sides of the restaurant. An outdoor terrace provides a spectacular view of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline.

A lengthy, 16-page menu confirms that Miyabi serves most Japanese specialities, but the focal points would have to be the kaiseki courses and the teppanyaki. There is a kaiseki for sushi and sashimi, beef and lobster, Australian abalone, seafood, tempura, and vegetable. The chef-recommended kaiseki (HK$880 up) changes every month, and is usually 12 courses that includes a chef-selected appetiser, seafood, vegetable, and beef dish with rice, miso soup, pickles and dessert. The waiting time between courses is a bit long, and a lot of the dishes, though obviously of quality ingredients, are average in taste. The tempura however, be it shrimp, crab claw, bitter melon, mushroom, sweet potato (HK$15 each to HK$200 for an assorted platter), are definitely above standard. The batter is tasty, and brings out the crisp freshness of the ingredients. The regular tofu comes to light under a punchy sauce of sweet miso, and the standard miso soup that comes with most courses is one of the best in town. The sashimi and sushi – sweet scallop, sea bass and salmon, are not superlative, but definitely still good. Other notable dishes worth trying are the grilled dried puffer fish (HK$90), dried mullet roe (HK$180) and steamed beef rice kamameshi (HK$280-$480). Even if you are too full to think about it, do not skip dessert. The blueberry cheesecake (HK$75) and tempura ice cream are must-tries (HK$85).

Miyabi offers a good selection of sake, focusing on pure rice (junmai) and very special (ginjyo) brews mostly from Kyoto, Fukui, and Niigata. Servings come in 500ml and 300ml bottles. There are four house pours (180ml), each from a different sake-producing region. Shochu and umeshu, as well as champagne, red and white wine are also available.

Staff are helpful and accommodating, but were either trained to leave diners alone, or refrained from giving recommendations due to lack of knowledge. Disappointingly, most of the kaiseki courses were served without introduction.

Expect to pay at least HK$1,500 for dinner for two, without drinks. Kaiseki courses start at HK$400.