The Mandarin Grill holds to the 1960s roots of the hotel with the low room, parquet flooring at the entrance and wood panelled walls, but there’s also something Art Deco in the strong geometry of the lines and moulded fans flaring across the ceiling. Ultimately, it is a grill – with the occasional gueridone wheeled out for roast beef and salmon. That is not to say the atmosphere is sombre – plenty of natural sunlight, a robin egg blue palette and an open kitchen provides a lively focus for the room, with the chefs hard at work commanding the troops.

“The Book” is perhaps the most beautiful starter in town, a tome that opens up at the table to reveal a selection of dainty, colourful vegetables. It is an exciting showcase of ingredients not in themselves normally a cause for song and dance. Also exquisitely presented is the langoustine, an intensely umami dish, with firm flesh well paired against gnocchi and topped with flavourful foamed broth. Mains are presented with just as much showmanship, in particular the chicken, which arrives steaming rich aromas from a cast iron pot in its own nest. First on the plate are the “bones” – chilled foie gras – followed by succulent chicken and just crispy skin, then shallots and carrot in jus. It is a delectable creation, but the wow-factor is really in the elaborate staging rather than the taste itself. More impressive in terms of flavour is the lamb – loin, 36-hour braised shoulder, leg and sausage stew appear side by side, each highly concentrated in flavour, while displaying different profiles. For dessert the “strawberry fields” is as charming as it sounds. Berries constructed of tuille, ice cream and jam are served on top of soil (crumbled biscuits) and with homemade cheesecake ice cream: light, surprising and delicious, this leaves just enough room for the delightful (if rich) petite fours of truffled truffles.

The wine list touches every corner of the globe, including Slovakian, Lebanese and Chinese vineyards. As might be expected, it offers high quality options with very little for the budget conscious, but for those sticking to tipple by the glass there’s plenty to enjoy, including a honey-laden Domaine Ott and a delightful Torbrek shiraz.

Service is everything at the Mandarin Oriental, a flawless ballet, from thorough knowledge of the menu, to the whipping on and off of black and white gloves when handling glass and china ware. Diners even have a choice of virgin olive oils to go with the bread basket.

Price are far from modest, with a three-course dinner for two (with a glass of wine each) approaching HK$3,000. Even considering the fine ingredients it is a costly experience, but then one is paying for just that – the total experience of Mandarin five-star service and the high creativity that goes into each dish.