Rather hidden away on level 2 of the City of Dreams, Lung Hin consequently does not attract passing trade. Once inside, the restaurant oozes luxury with traditional decor highlighted by silk-screen embroidery and elegant crystal. Curiously there are no windows. Narumi bone china adorns the round spacious tables.

Lung Hin is Cantonese with most traditional dishes available on the extensive menu. There is also a Shanghainese section of the menu. Chef Tam also creates some imaginative dishes. Seafood fresh from the market includes several types of garoupa and can be prepared in seven differing ways: steamed, baked, stir-fried, hotpot baked, braised, poached, or wok-seared. At lunchtime dim sum is of the highest quality. The popular Cantonese shrimp dumplings uses fresh shrimp whilst pork dumplings with crab meat are equally tasty. Pan-fried spring onion puffs can be oily. Rock-salt roasted free- range chicken has crispy skin and the succulent flesh is packed with flavour. Fujian fried rice is a generous portion and is more moist than most other fried rice versions and is topped with seafood and chicken. For dessert, mulberry tea with poached egg is unusual. Beware if ordering the almond cream soup (MOP28). If you nod assent when the waitress repeats almond “milk” you will discover when the bill arrives that “milk” comes with bird’s nest and is a mere MOP488! To compound the felony the almond milk is overly sugary.

The City of Dreams master list has many expensive Bordeaux and luxury Champagnes. Take care when ordering wines by the glass, some of the whites are far too old. Vintage mou tai and wu liang ye are an impressive collection as are the malt whiskies and cognacs.

Pleasant and helpful and there is plenty of attention at quiet times.

Whilst Lung Hin caters to casino high rollers, basic dishes are inexpensive and high quality. It is possible to eat well for MOP400 for two, especially at lunch. Five-course set menus, unfortunately all featuring shark’s fin, range from MOP388 up to MOP688 per person.