To step into the Lobster Bar is to travel to a bygone era, with décor that matches the elegant classicism of the cuisine. Inspiration is drawn from various historical periods, with art nouveau ceiling lights and glasswork, walls hung with old master still lifes (subject matter: lobster) and the macho lines of 80s power lunches. An azure fish tank provides a focal point for the centre of the room and a reminder of dishes to come. While definitely a business venue, the ambience is all jazzed up with a live three-piece band by the bar area, playing agreeable standards to sip a martini against.

The menu offers old-fashioned luxury starring time-honoured ingredients that please without challenging the palate. Seafood dominates the selection, and the eponymous crustacean is king. The signature starter of lobster tartar comes beautifully presented on a bed of fine sliced cucumber and a meaty claw on top (albeit served with a slice of toasted white sandwich bread), but the portion is surprisingly modest considering the hefty price tag. The meat is also somewhat muted by the lemon yogurt dressing though local taste buds might enjoy the sweet crunch of corn in the mixture. The much anticipated lobster bisque is lighter than expected, but the consistency plays up the delicacy of the shellfish flavours, though it really ought to arrive at the table hotter. Main courses prove the Lobster Bar’s ability to pull off classics and the heart-stoppingly rich lobster thermidor does not disappoint. Turf lovers are also catered for – the prime beef duo combines slow cooked wagyu short ribs that almost fall apart at a touch and a succulent black Angus tenderloin topped with delicious seared duck liver. Desserts offer no surprises, but are perfect takes on familiar sweets. Though tempted by the retro rum babas, our selections of vanilla and chocolate crème brûlée and “The Lady in Red” (a mascarpone filled macaron, on fresh strawberries and coulis) are pleasant and light enough to follow the heavy mains.

Expecting the epic chapters of a fine dining wine list, it is a relief to be handed a concise, well thought-out selection, that nevertheless offers a wide range of grapes, region (with an emphasis on French), and sizes, from half bottles through to a Salmanazar. Overall, a not unreasonable price point, but those who care to can certainly blow the budget on vintages to impress.

Perhaps due to its business oriented clientele, service is as impersonal as it is possible to be while remaining smooth and polite, with dishes served in adroit silence. However, we are not offered water until halfway through our mains.

Rarefied tradition does not come cheap, and a three-course meal for two with a glass of wine each almost pushes the HK$2,000 mark. Whether it is good value for money would on how nostalgic you are for retro haute cuisine.