Enter the Pousada de Sao Tiago, a Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel, through steps carved into the walls of the 17th century fortress. Whilst La Paloma is more akin at first appearance to a coffee shop than a fine dining establishment, the exquisite cutlery and fine Riedel glassware quickly dispel this image. The view at night is spectacular with the terrace decked in fairy lights, a seaview, a beautiful fountain, and floodlit trees. A calm, peaceful and romantic ambience pervades.

Chef Hector Costa is unmistakeably Spanish and so is his cuisine. Naturally there are a number of tapas and four tapas can be selected for MOP380 and the portions are generous. Amongst the best is the 36-month pata negra, which is of the highest quality. The Iberico ham is extremely tasty and not at all salty, as sometimes can be the case. The accompanying fresh hot tomato bread is equally delicious. Other tapas we enjoyed include the snails Catalonian style, served floating on fresh tomato puree and crunchy bacon bits and the baby squid in black ink, which come in a garlic and onion sauce. Several versions of the classic Spanish paella are offered. We try the “Valenciana”, which is almost a full meal in itself with perfectly cooked rice and large fresh prawns, clams, mussels, squid, chicken and chorizo. Fish includes fresh sole “Vasca” style, sea bass “Lubina” and codfish with potatoes, garlic, and tomato. Meats include beef and lamb but it is the crispy baby pork served with apple “compota”, roasted tomatoes and potatoes that should certainly not be missed. The skin is crispy whilst the tender flesh simply melts in the mouth. Spanish desserts are all modestly priced but it is the gourmet cheese selection from Spain that is the most interesting.

Now under the Lisboa’s wing, La Paloma offers many excellent wines - the full list itemises over 3,000 wines with wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Italy strongly represented. Careful perusal will reveal bargains at well below current retail market price. However there is really no need to go past the red Spanish wines by the glass which are five star quality and reasonably priced. Whilst there is no sommelier, the manager has an excellent knowledge of the list and can make appropriate recommendations if required.

The senior waiters know the menu well and can offer sage advice. Service is efficient with water and wine glasses never empty.

A filling dinner for two is MOP1,100, excluding wine, and represents excellent value for money. A seven-course tasting menu is MOP1,380 for two.