La Marmite plays up the Parisian bistro theme with vintage French posters, but is lighter and brighter than the typical moody bistro. The restaurant is decked out in cheerful white and cream, with pale green stained wood adding texture. Already enjoying relative spaciousness for a Soho venue, ample use is made of mirrors and floor to ceiling windows (which open in warm weather for alfresco seating) to create a sense of even greater capacity. Nevertheless, some tables are packed a little too close for comfort and at times the neighbours might as well be sharing a cover. There is extra seating upstairs, which can also be rented as a private room.

While the outlets of the Aqua Group lean towards progressive and fusion focused menu, La Marmite offers a comforting selection of bistro classics, though with a touch of creativity that lifts it above the ruck of Parisian themed dining. Staples like lobster bisque are there for the purists (a beautifully creamy rendition), but this comes with a decidedly atypical side of tempura green vegetables in yuzu salt (a splendid alternative to shoestring fries). More eccentric still is the foie gras crème brûlée, a delightfully light interpretation, attractively speckled with poppy seeds, though the sourdough toast could have been fresher. Overall the starters are more successful than the mains, while although get many things right, are problematic on textures. The John Dory is just seasoned enough to set off the fish without overpowering its fresh natural flavour, but the flesh is alas, dry and overcooked. The dish is rescued by two small cakes of potato gratin, which are amongst the best we have ever tasted, rich and fragrant with nutmeg. The grilled beef tenderloin in Sarawak black pepper better and melted sorrel is likewise skilfully sauced, but arrives undercooked. The exterior is charred, but the inside remains so rare it is almost gelatinous – well short of the medium rare ordered – and rolls around on the plate when cut. Desserts prove a vast improvement – the apple and Calvados tart tatin is classically pleasing, topped with proper vanilla ice cream spotted with black seeds. For a lighter finish, try the refreshingly unconventional lychee and raspberry soup with rose water foam and lychee sorbet.

In fitting with the open and carefree bistro atmosphere, the wine list warrants little fuss but is pleasingly accessible in its straightforwardness. In what could be an attempt at an authentic experience, the pickings are exclusively French with no exceptions. The pomp of premier cru giants makes way for some enjoyable, well-made nouveau French wines, and our Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc Domaine Thomas Le Perrier (2010) is a delightful quaff.

French managed, the servers are all thoroughly versed on the menu, able to recommend both dishes and wines with aplomb. Though the venue is busy during a Saturday night service, they helpfully move our table on request.

Though the mains had their flaws, the friendly bistro prices make it very easy to forgive and to think instead on the tasty starters, smooth service and cheerful ambience. A three-course dinner for two with a very respectable bottle of French tipple comes to just over HK$2,000.