Located on the 5th floor of the JW Marriot in Pacific Place, California matches the upmarket feel of the rest of the hotel. The restaurant was recently renovated, which transformed the interior into a slick and stylish space. Featuring shiny marble, warm wooded fittings and contemporary art, the décor reflects the eatery’s modern cuisine. The main feature of the interior is a long light panel, which spreads through the restaurant, subtly illuminating the space in changing colours. The main dining room might feel a little impersonal to some but more intimate private rooms are available, seating parties of up to 22 people.

The restaurant offers a contemporary take on Californian favourites, presenting an imaginative menu that fuses North American and Asian cuisine, with new dishes added on a monthly basis. The decision whether to order meat or seafood might be a hard one, seeing both feature equally well on the menu. If you’re in the mood for seafood, try the house’s twist on fresh oysters: serving the oysters with an imaginative choice of sauces and salsas (sake mignonette, tomato-wasabi or jalapeno), you can experience the classic dish in manifold ways. There is also a good selection of sushi available from the raw bar, as well as some cooked fish dishes including the juicy hazelnut- crusted yellowfin tuna steak (served with kipfler potato, fennel and ruby grapefruit) or the delicious homemade Boston lobster ravioli. If meat is more your thing, you’ll have a mouth-watering choice of steaks and chops. You might want to try a dish from the lava stone grill, such as the divine Australian grade 9+ wagyu beef, which can be ordered as either striploin or rib-eye. While beef features strongly on the menu, there is also a choice of classic lamb, pork, veal and chicken dishes available.

The restaurant’s wine list focuses on New World wines, with a particularly large selection of reasonably priced Californian and Australian wines on hand. However, a smaller selection of Old World wines is available too, including a rare 2002 Château Petrus at HK$16,680. There is also a good choice of champagne available, including Domaine Ste. Michelle, an American sparkling wine produced in the state of Washington.

Service at California is prompt and attentive, reflecting the five-star standards of JW Marriot. The wait staff is fairly familiar with the menu but might need to check with the kitchen if you have any specific queries.

Depending on the dishes you select, expect to pay around HK$1,200 upwards for a three-course dinner for two, excluding wine and service.