As would be expected in a leading five-star hotel, Jade Garden in StarWorld is designed and planned for luxury, with sophisticated decor in tasteful muted colors, and well-planned seating arrangements, with banquette booths along one side of the outer area, and tables separated by screens on the other, as well as a spacious inner dining room. Strategic use of carpeting, draperies and upholstery keep the noise level to a comfortable minimum, and muted house music adds to the relaxing atmosphere.

Jade Garden specialises in Suzhou and Zhejiang dishes like steamed shad and fire-roasted honey beef. Shanghainese chef Sun Quon expertly seasons meat and fish with mild spices and a hint of sweetness. An excellent example of this style is the sliced ham with honey sauce (MOP388), thick slices of glazed ham garnished with fruit, and the Jade Garden jasmine tea-smoked duck (MOP68 for half, MOP128 for whole), a savory delicacy that is crispy and juicy with a hint of smoky flavor, served with delicate shell-shaped steamed buns that make this dish a real star of the menu. Also more than noteworthy and in fact a good reason in itself to go back again to Jade Garden is the braised goose liver in sake (MOP218), which is slightly firmer than French foie gras but every bit as flavorful, especially in combination with the tiny sweet plums served as a condiment to accompany the meal.

Jade Garden has a well-rounded wine list, with a good variety of labels and range of prices, but unfortunately does not offer house wines by the glass. The Ruffino Pino Grigio 2006, at MOP380 is an excellent choice to pair with the hearty Shanghainese dishes that are Jade Garden’s specialties.

Service at Jade Garden is unobtrusive and attentive, with a good ratio of well-trained wait staff to guests. Unfortunately, not many of the staff are fluent in English, but they try their best to please.

Dinner might run to about MOP450 per person, or more, if the seasonal sea food specialties are ordered, excluding wine. Portions are generous, so they’re best shared among two or more diners. Given the portion size and the culinary skill that goes into producing the dishes, they are good value for money.