Imperial Court is MGM’s flagship Cantonese restaurant. Like most casino restaurants, there is no natural lighting and no clocks but the large well-spaced tables with good quality place settings make up for this slightly unnatural ambience. There are many private rooms for VIPs.

Almost every dish expected in a top-class Cantonese restaurant is available. Some items are standard whilst others have creative twists. Lunch time dim sum offers a number of interesting and unusual innovations such as prawn, water chestnut and quail egg dumpling(MOP38) or sea urchin and cuttlefish dumpling(MOP48). Seasonal hairy crab meat dumpling was disappointing in its lack of roe. For appetisers, chilled drunken pigeon with osmanthus wine and ginseng is succulent unlike the steamed crab claw with egg white, which is dry and overcooked. Wok-fried spring beans and preserved vegetables are fresh and crunchy. Free-range chicken is available cooked in a variety of ways. The good choices of clay pot casseroles are rich and filling. Note that X.O. sauce is charged extra (MOP20) as is warm water (MOP24). Desserts are mostly conventional Cantonese but there are some unusual combinations such as chilled blueberry and taro pudding.

MGM’s master list is comprehensive and especially strong on wines from Bordeaux, California and Portugal. The 14 wines available by the glass are well-chosen with the Fermoy Margaret River Chardonnay (MOP60) as especially great value.

Staff are pleasant, helpful and observant – finger bowls appear unobtrusively and plates quietly cleared throughout the meal.

Like many casino restaurants prices are reasonable. A satisfying, filling meal for two without drinks is MOP400.