Perched on one of the top floors of One Peking in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hutong has a truly spectacular setting with floor to ceiling windows which offer a panoramic view of the harbour and most of the north of Hong Kong Island including the Peak, making it one of the best places to take visitors to Hong Kong. Retro Chinese furnishings include beautifully carved wood screens, birdcages, red lanterns and an old rickshaw: a real hit amongst tourists who like to have their photographs taken while sitting in it. This is a popular, classy, chic rendezvous with bookings essential for dinner. Tables are well-spaced and large but the wooden chairs can be a little hard. Lighting is muted, emphasizing the stunning views to be enjoyed at nighttime.

Hutong serves contemporary Northern Chinese cuisine and the emphasis is on Shanghai and Beijing cuisine with some Sichuan and Hunan dishes. The menu is extensive enough to suit most palates and classic dishes are modernized to make the dishes healthier or tastier: for example, some traditional river fish recipes may substitute more flavourful ocean fish instead. The presentation of all the dishes is excellent and artistic. The tasting menu featuring award-winning creations is perhaps the best way of sampling the creativity of Hutong’s chefs. Portions on this eight-course menu are generous but not overwhelming. Favourites include scallops topped with pomelo segments, a delightfully contrasting combination; and the spicy but totally delicious “Ma La” bamboo clams salad with leek and coriander. Also superb is the string bean and dried bean curd with mushroom vinaigrette. The fillet of cod tossed with crispy fermented bean and dried chili is a true highlight: the fish melts in the mouth while the dried chili gives it a delightful crunch. Kung po-style prawns with cashew nuts are succulent and come perfectly spiced. Crispy boneless duck served with pancakes is accompanied by a scallion, garlic and soya sauce dip and is Hutong’s version of Peking duck. A slight disappointment is the golden tofu filled with prawn in chili sauce with green asparagus, which is less flavorsome than the description would lead one to expect. For dessert, the baked pastries with winter melon paste and homemade black and white sesame ice-cream are a suitable finale to a splendid degustation menu.

Wines by the glass are well-selected and fairly priced. Major regions, both old world and new, are represented with a strong choice of classed growth Bordeaux. Helpful notes describe each of the sixty-plus wines available. Chinese rice wines and Japanese sake are well-sourced and offer interesting alternatives.

Smartly-attired staff know their stuff. They are attentive and able to describe and recommend dishes.

Minimum charge is HK$300 per person but expect to pay about HK$400 per person. The eight-course tasting menu is reasonable value at HK$880 and will provide a memorable gastronomic experience.