Setting is without a doubt what sets Hutong at One Peking in Tsim Sha Tsui apart from similar restaurants of the same ilk. The interior is dim verging on dark and decorated with an array of traditional Chinese curios: lanterns, stone coins and woodwork booths in the style of Chinese beds. The seats are crowded closely together but, thanks to the stunning view over the iconic skyline, the layout and light level seem appropriate and even evocative. Sometimes the interior feels more like an expensive bar than a nice restaurant but the vibe is perfect for Hutong’s obviously intended audience: guests and out-of-towners looking for a high-end “only in Hong Kong” dining experience.

For starters the chili-spiced bamboo clams steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce (HK$178) served cold are flavorful and refreshing. The crispy de-boned lamb ribs (HK$288) are Hutong’s signature dish and justifiably so. The meat is fatty, luscious, well-prepared and served with fresh crushed garlic, spring onions and a scallion sauce, which do a fine job of cutting the fat of the lamb. Another great dish is the “Shanghai-style” honey glazed ham with lotus seed and osmanthus flower sauce (HK$288), served with steamed bread rolls. Although not the best version of this dish that we have ever had, mostly due to the quality of the ham, it was delicious none-the-less. The bak choi vegetable poached in fish soup (HK$148) is also very good: fresh and tasty vegetables served in an excellent, rich fish broth. The two surprise hits of the meal were the minced pork with fennel seed dumplings (HK$88) which were simply exceptional and the ice cream. Aside from more mainstream flavors, Hutong’s ice cream comes in Sichuan peppercorn, sesame and hua diao wine flavour. Sound bizarre? Believe it or not, they are all, without exception, delicious.

Hutong has a fairly extensive wine list with varieties from around the world available by both the bottle and glass. The staff are wine-savvy and helpful. We especially enjoyed the selection of traditional Chinese wines rarely found on English language menus elsewhere. Also, a visitor to Hutong would be remiss if they did not try the signature lychee wine cocktail.

The service at Hutong is very good. Even on a busy day the servers are attentive, knowledgeable and eager to please. Service is prompt but not rushed.

The value at Hutong is very good. Dinner for two with wine comes to about HK$1,300, which is certainly on the cheaper end of Hong Kong’s high-end high-rise dining.