As suggested by the name, this fine dining European restaurant is located next to the men’s section on the fourth floor of luxury department store Harvey Nichols. With geometric shapes in primary colours outlined by glowing strips of neon lighting on both the ceiling and the floor, the décor is unabashedly modern and may be jarring to some. While there is a view of Queen’s Road Central from the windows lining one side of the corridor-shaped restaurant, it is for some reason oddly obscured by silver mesh curtains. The panels that line the opposite wall serve to give the restaurant an almost temporary appearance.

While Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant is billed as a European restaurant, thanks to executive chef Giggs Lo - who has previously worked at L’Atelier de Robuchon, Amber and Robuchon a Galera in Macau – the menu has a decidedly French slant. Traditional luxury ingredients such as lobster, foie gras and truffle punctuate the menu, as do more modern components such as savoury ice creams and foams. We start with a seasonal appetiser of risotto with scallop, sea urchin and salmon roe. We like that the risotto is seasoned with a confidently light hand, allowing the individual seafood to shine with their multifarious sweet and briny notes. Vegetarians will love the morel mushroom soup which is deeply flavourful with a variety of fresh and dried fungi discernible and just enough cream foam to keep it as a light appetiser. Mains are more disappointing: the signature lobster and seabass comprises of butter poached lobster and a piece of pan-fried seabass sitting on opposite sides of a plate, disconnected and incongruent apart from the fact that both rest on the same pile of plain mushroom cous cous. While both seafood are well-cooked individually, as a whole, the dish needs significantly more moisture than the drops of tobiko butter sauce provided. The roasted chicken is slightly better: a baby chicken is stuffed with mushroom mousse terrine and artichokes, which are served alongside homemade ravioli with chicken and foie gras. Again, the dish errs on the dry side, with both the foie gras in the ravioli and the mushroom terrine shriveled slightly from overcooking. The dish is saved by the additional jus, which is provided upon request. Desserts return the meal to the same high note it started on. Chocolate lovers will appreciate the hot chocolate sable tart served with buttery caramel sauce and a shot glass of coconut foam on the side but the real star is the rum panna cotta served with poached pears and a chocolate ganache. Although the panna cotta is on the firm side, its kick of alcohol is well complemented by the bitterness of the dark chocolate ganache.

The wine list is a thick tome with wines listed by country and broken into regions. While all the obvious French and Italian regions are well-represented, so are less famous ones such as Colchagua from Chile or Central Otago in New Zealand. A good range of price points are available, with wines starting at HK$300 to a 1961 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou from St-Julien priced at HK$8,800. There is also a large selection of wines by the half bottle.

Attentive almost to a fault, perhaps due to it being quite a slow night when we visited. Wet napkins were placed on our table seconds after we decide to attack the roast chicken drumsticks with our fingers and plates are whisked away almost as soon as we put down our cutlery. Overall, however, the staff are well-trained, efficient and friendly.

Dinner for two with wine will come to about HK$1,400. Considering the central location, the quality of the food and attentive service, this is not a bad deal at all. Set dinners - priced at HK$498 for five courses or HK$688 with wine pairings - are positively a bargain.