The classic interior of H One, located at IFC Mall in Central, is about timeless elegance, reflected in the Italian restaurant’s dining atmosphere. Simplicity, when done correctly, speaks for itself. A great feature of H One is the welcoming spread of oysters and antipasti laid out on a long “chef’s counter” just past the entrance, like a visual amuse bouche. Coupled with intimate dining rooms and harbour views, H One is a very comfortable restaurant to spend an evening in.

The menu is happily simple and focuses on strengths rather than diversity. Charcoal-grilled items – from steaks to fish to spring chicken – anchor the menu along with H One’s signature pastas and slow-cooked specialities. An appetiser not to be missed is the pan-roasted scallops with leek purée, herb butter and Spanish ham (HK$218). Seared to perfection, the sweetness of the scallops explodes with umami flavour inspired by the leek and herb butter. Each accompanying element of the dish has a special role in lifting the scallops to new heights. Our one complaint is there were only two scallops to enjoy. A worthy signature entree is linguini with Sicilian red prawns, datterini tomatoes, parsley and chili (HK$458). The prawns are a sweet delight, offering taste and texture that distinguish these premium prawns from more pedestrian catch. The hint of spice was a loving touch, coupled with perfectly al dente linguini. This dish was a hit and shows that H One cares deeply about top ingredients. Unfortunately, the pork chops (HK$398) would have been similarly impressive if it didn’t arrive at the table overcooked. The quality of the meat is excellent and is the type of cut that reminds us of the true, robust flavour of pork. However, regardless of the source quality, nothing can save even the finest chop from being overcooked.

H One has an excellent wine list, but it is a very pricey one. There are many wines to choose from by the glass, and a fine balance of vintages that will satisfy anyone from novice to expert. However, the vast majority of bottles begin at no less than HK$600.

H One servers are efficient and professional. However, what should be noted is the understated touch of warmth that makes diners feel special without being overbearing. No complaints here as the H One staff scores high marks.

Dinner for two without wine will easily cost HK$2,000. H One makes no apologies for sourcing expensive ingredients, and the price point reflects that. Consistently, the food is good but not amazing, considering the quality of ingredients and these prices.