Step into Grissini, the Italian restaurant at Grand Hyatt in Wan Chai, and it’s a looker. Soaring high ceilings echo the art deco features of the hotel, while Philippe Starck chairs and floor-to-ceiling windows lend a modern touch to the New York-style decor. The eye is immediately drawn to the arresting view of the harbour and the neon-swathed skyline of the city. There is no finer front row seat for Hong Kong’s numerous fireworks shows than this eatery. For those who would prefer to indulge behind closed doors, Grissini also has a private room that seats 28.

Chef de cuisine Andrea Fraire’s menu sings with authentic Italian flavours and seasonal ingredients. Tycoons and hotel guests alike come to this beloved Hong Kong establishment for the homemade pasta. The beef carpaccio (HK$220) with marinated mushroom is minimally adorned with rucola leaves, parmesan and a light drizzling of extra virgin olive oil. One of the signature dishes is a line-caught sea bass with tomatoes, olives, capers and red onion (HK$420), which is like a Mediterranean vacation on a plate. The bass is cooked to textbook perfection and delicately flavoured. Organic beef sirloin (HK$380) is well seasoned with garlic, butter and herbs and comes with rosemary roasted potatoes and sautéed vegetables. The Amalfi lemon temptation (HK$120) is a trio of citrus desserts including a tart, panettone pudding and sorbet, that collectively offer a welcome blend of tartness and sweetness, as well as temperature and texture. But one of the simplest pleasures to be had is the restaurant’s namesake- the grissini, or the breadsticks are divine. Crusty with a soft chewy centre, it is well accompanied by aged balsamic vinegar and the finest olive oil of the land. Grissini also boasts one of the best brunches in town.

The wine is wholesomely Italian and does an admirable job of spanning the width and the breath of the country’s wines region. Oenophiles are sure to rejoice in the 1,000-bottle cellar, and while the by-the-glass selection though limited, it is well-edited.

On a quiet evening, the service is admirably attentive. The wait staff is especially helpful with wine selection.

A three-course menu for two without wine comes to roughly HK$1,700.