Set among baby palm trees and fronds next to the pool at the Grand Hyatt hotel in Wan Chai, The Grill offers a tempting al fresco dining option, whether or not you are a hotel guest. All of the tables are nestled under giant umbrellas which offer shelter from the elements. A modern waterfall at one end of the pool provides a soothing trickling sound, and the happy swimmers and relaxed sunbathers nearby add to the laid-back vibe.

The food at The Grill is on par with most hotel poolside restaurants, which is to say: average. One goes to The Grill to enjoy refreshing drinks and nibbles while soaking in the laid-back vibe of summer, rather than a five-star culinary experience. However, we must admit The Grill’s Greek salad is a delicious take on the classic, made with skinned cucumbers, peeled and marinated cherry tomatoes, baby spinach leaves, meaty kalamata olives, fresh oregano and two hefty chunks of feta cheese grilled on the outside to provide a crispy exterior. It was much better than the other salad we tried, a butter lettuce salad that was flat and under-seasoned, and the accompanying avocado cubes were unappetisingly brown. For our mains, the parma ham and buffalo mozzarella panini arrived on soggy bread, but the accompanying side of French fries are crispy and delicious. A grilled salmon fillet is bland and the dish could have been saved by a generous sprinkling of salt. The rocket salad and mashed potatoes served alongside the fish fared better.

Drinks are a highlight at The Grill, which boasts an impressive selection of fresh fruit juices, smoothies and sodas – perfect to cool down after a dip in the pool. We love the homemade apple and blueberry soda is sweet and refreshing, made with fresh fruit. A good selection of wines by the glass are available, including a Dona Paula Malbec 2009 (HK$100 by the glass) and a crisp Gladstone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (HK$95 by the glass).

Surprisingly for a hotel of Grand Hyatt’s calibre, service at The Grill is slow. The vibe may have been laid-back but even so, trying to get a waiter’s attention was difficult, despite the half-empty restaurant.

An alfresco meal for two, including drinks and dessert, costs approximately HK$1,000; a bit expensive given the casual atmosphere. This is probably due to the drinks, which are on the pricey side, with fresh juices and smoothies costing around HK$80.