Any old timer will remember that the space occupied by the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse used to be the legendary JJs, but this new tenant does the space’s history proud. Emitting a dark and glamourous Hollywood vibe, Roman sculptures, oil paintings, leather banquettes and heavy drapery all admittedly make up an ambience that is not what you would expect from a typical steak house – but give the place unusual character. At the centre of the main room is an impressive seafood and oyster bar, flanked by semi-private and private dining rooms, a wine room and cigar tasting room, ensuring there is a space for everyone.

While the ambience might not convey typical American fare, the tight and thoughtful menu obviously has a clear focus on steak house classics, all delivered consistently well. Tempting though it is to start your evening with the Steakhouse salad bar - which at HK$150 for eat all you can is extremely good value - we recommend you go easy on the starters as the main event - the steaks - are quite filling. You won’t be disappointed by going for the lighter options of seafood on ice, a delectable and ocean-fresh selection of whole Maine lobster, Alaskan king crab legs, cherrystone clams, prawns and oysters. Another seafood option, the seared Maryland crab cakes, doesn’t skimp on the use of crabmeat, and complemented in taste and texture by a refreshing orange and spinach salad on the side. For the mains, the Steakhouse focuses on three types of beef – Nebraska USDA prime, Canadian Angus and Japanese wagyu. Our waiter recommended the Canadian Angus 38oz Porterhouse. The sizeable meat came grilled perfectly rare as requested, with a satisfying smoky crust. And though a large selection of sauces and mustards are available, the truffle mustard is hard to beat. Another main course, the grilled Mediterranean shrimps was one of the best we’ve had – moist, with a distinct herb flavour that didn’t overpower the delicate seafood flesh. The only downside to the meal was that our side order of duck fat potato fries was surprisingly unremarkable. But the dessert we ordered ended the evening on a high note – the cinnamon-spiced Washington apple crumble that came with a side order of extra thick and creamy soft serve vanilla ice cream. The cuts of apple remained juicy with the perfect touch of sourness so as not to be too cloyingly sweet, and complemented in texture by the chunky crumbles is one worth ordering again and again.

The extensive but well thought-out wine list is categorised by grape with a Sommelier’s Selection and useful tasting notes that accompany them. There is a clear focus on American, Italian and French wines. The Cabernet Sauvignon Nickel & Nickel Sullenger Vineyard Oakille US 2006, recommended by our well-versed server, goes particularly well with steak.

Service here is top-notch – friendly, discreetly attentive, and definitely and goes out of their way to accommodate your every request. And though they are confident in their recommendations, the dishes arrive without introduction or explanation, the only downside to otherwise flawless service.

At an average price per head of HK$1,000-HK$1,200 with drinks, the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse isn’t cheap but for the quality and size of the servings that can be shared, becomes quite good value for money.