Grand Central Bar & Grill evokes the urban sophistication and industrial grittiness of New York City without resorting to kitschy decor. The two-level restaurant located at Civic Square (the upper podium of Elements shopping mall in Kowloon) is named after Manhattan’s Grand Central Station, and the New York reference is clearly expressed through well thought-out design and architectural elements. The upper level, for example, features concrete walls, exposed iron beams and steel columns, much like the classic New York lofts of the 1960s. Original drive-wheel patterns and sprockets used in trains and ships in the 1940s hang over the staircase of the restaurant. Meanwhile, the lower level keeps things warm and cosy with exposed brick and intimate leather booths.

The restaurant serves “East Coast American fare”, which seems to refer to a wide range of fresh, grilled and fried seafood dishes inspired by New York and New England cuisine, as well as the salads, steaks, sandwiches and burgers associated with American food in general. The chilled seafood sampler for two (HK$485) is fresh and delicious on the whole, but the yellowfin tuna sashimi suffers from an identity crisis in its seared form, not to mention it comes with soy sauce and wasabi but not chopsticks. The garlic grilled king prawns (HK$275) are fresh, well-sized, well-cooked and deliciously paired with a pineapple salsa. The 16oz “St Helens” US prime rib-eye (HK$365) is tender and flavourful, and we recommend ordering the fragrant and crispy parmesan fries (HK$32) on the side. The loaded potato skins (HK$92), however, are disappointing. The potato-to-stuffing ratio is too high and the cheese turns rubbery far too quickly. The grilled asparagus (HK$80) also falls short, with plenty of texture but little flavour. The perfect way to finish off this unapologetically calorie-laden meal is with the legendary hot chocolate cake (HK$65). The indulgent dessert is halfway between solid cake and liquid chocolate, and the sinful dish is topped with a scoop of ice cream.

Grand Central has a decent range of wine with regards to variety and budget, but the restaurant is better known for its beer selection. From “Boring Bottles” like the ubiquitous Tsing Tao to “Kick-Ass Bottles” hailing from Belgium, Germany, the US, Canada and Australia, and even its own house brew – “GC Ale” – the restaurant has a beer to suit every palate. Also worth a mention are its liquid nitrogen-topped “Iceberg Martinis”, which are both delicious and fun.

The wait staff is friendly and well-trained, willing to accommodate special requests whenever possible. They have a decent knowledge of the menu and can make well-informed dish and beverage recommendations.

The steaks and seafood dishes are the heavy hitters on the menu. Excluding alcohol, dinner for two will tally HK$400 and up per person, about right for its location and the family-friendly cuisine.