The decor hasn’t changed much in the past decade at Grand Café in Wan Chai, which explains the slightly dated setting. Floor-to-ceiling windows give diners a glimpse of Kowloon, though sadly the Exhibition Centre has obstructed a large part of the once glorious view. The clientele at Grand Cafe is predominantly local rather than hotel guests, with a core group of devotees who visit the dinner buffet regularly.

Grand Café serves up familiar coffee-shop favourites but its focus on quality ingredients heighten any typical hotel café experience. For appetisers, the green pea soup (HK$110) is a light starter of minimal cream and maximum pea flavour. The Caesar salad (HK$150)is one of the best in Hong Kong, accented with fresh anchovies, generous shavings of parmesan and an appropriately tart dressing. For mains, the laksa (HK$180) is less pungent than the ones you’d get at a proper Singaporean eatery, but nevertheless a satisfying, if delicate, bowl of noodles. USDA sirloin steak is the star of the menu (HK$320), proficiently fattier than a typical cut of sirloin, which is expertly cooked. A whole head of roasted garlic as garnish is the perfect accompaniment to the steak, along with the usual vegetables such as broiled tomato and broccoli. To end, you can’t go wrong with the nightly dessert buffet (HK$160). Chocolate-lovers will be glad to find that there are at least five different cocoa-based desserts, with a chocolate fountain on Sundays and public holidays. Other sweet treats include bread and butter pudding, tiramisu and cheesecakes, plus a cheese selection.

The wine list is brief with only eight red wines and eight white wines. All are available by the glass, so there is no house wine option. The Paul Zinck Pinot Gris (HK$120) from Alsace is sweeter than expected, but goes down a treat with saltier mains like the laksa.

Despite the hectic removal of plates and maneuvering around customers heading for the buffet, the waiters retain a level of professionalism that is expected of any five-star hotel.

Dinner for two should cost around HK$1,000.