Secreted away on the lower lobby of the Conrad hotel in Admiralty, Golden Leaf is well worth discovering. Decorated in traditional Chinese style with carved teakwood and rosewood furniture, a number of antique art pieces are also featured. Tables are well-spaced and seating is comfortable in this upmarket fine dining venue.

This is authentic Cantonese cooking at its most refined and healthiest. Almost every dish is very light and free of any trace of oil and there are no heavy sauces to interfere with the natural taste of the high-quality ingredients. At lunch there is a superb selection of classic dim sum and several set meals. The a la carte menu is comprehensive with many selections in each category including live fish and live seafood. Creativity is a keynote for many dishes. Appetisers include diced bean curd that is light as a feather and garnished with a subtle touch of garlic salt. Chef So’s recommendation of steamed fresh crab claw with minced ginger and rice wine is beautifully presented with the ginger adding “bite” to the sauce. Baked crab meat with onions served in crab shell has an attractive appearance though there is a trifle too much coconut. Not to be missed is another speciality, poached chicken with chicken essence. The tender chicken is deboned and the stock light and delicate. The accompanying sauce of garlic and leek is freshness itself. Another bean curd dish, braised with minced beef and chilli sauce has just the right amount of spiciness, whilst braised pork spare ribs with Chinese herbs are excellent. The only disappointment was the fried rice, which was surprisingly bland.

Quite a comprehensive list with several hundred wines offered. Most regions are well represented. Over twenty wines are available by the glass. There are no bargains as the usual hotel mark-ups apply. Glassware is good quality.

Excellent and helpful. Waiters know the dishes well and are not afraid to advise against a particular dish. When dishes are presented at the table, the waiter will helpfully portion them for each diner.

A dinner for two without wine or mineral water would be HK$1,200. Lunch with dim sum would be cheaper.