The moment you step into Gold in LKF Tower, you can tell a lot of attention has been given to conveying a warm, ebullient energy through the decor. Brown wooden swirls mark the ceiling while soft lights highlight elegant shelving and artwork on the walls. Dim lighting, drapes and thick carpeting underfoot dampen the ambient noise surprisingly well although this is outweighed by the loud house music playing on the terrace, the constant opening of patio doors raising the volume to uncomfortable levels for those trying to enjoy a quiet meal and seated on the far end of the restaurant. The restaurant is a favourite with the celebratory crowd as on our visit there were three separate birthday celebrations complete with sequential restaurant-wide dimming of house lights for the candle blowing occasions.

The menu at Gold is extensive and covers a large range of different regional and international cuisines. Surprising additions include salmon sashimi, crispy creole oysters, lamb kafta with hummus, and cheeseburgers slotting in between aged Iberico pata negra and wagyu Fiorentina steaks. We start with an Akami tuna tartar with fennel which is refreshing, light and perfectly seasoned. An excellent start to any meal, evoking some of the best elements of a steak tartar without any of the heft. A smoked eel with tempura uni and a cauliflower foam is next, the eel being excellently prepared and cooked with a nice balance of tartness. The cauliflower foam performs an admirable balancing act but the sea urchin tempura batter is soggy and overwhelmed by the acidity of the eel, which has the sharp brine of a pickled mackerel or sardine. Mushroom fans will delight in the porcini mushroom linguine which while a tad watery, has a deep, robust mushroom flavour. Our Iberico pork rack has a surprisingly smokey but rich flavour, and is moist and well-cooked with a generous marbling of fat. A large side of spinach and stewed cherry tomatoes overwhelms the plate, the tomato being a touch too tangy. Harlan Goldstein is known for his steaks and the U.S. grain-fed rib eye with roasted garlic, caramelised onion and cherry tomato is well-cooked, but is neither the fattiest or most flavourful cut of U.S. beef we have had. We end our meal with a simple dessert of chocolate compote with chocolate foam and chocolate chunks, its different components strangely reminiscent of a midnight raid in a particularly well-stocked fridge.

An extensive selection of French, German, Italian and and New World wines, starting from HK$480 all the way up to stratospheric HK$3.8million for a magnum of 1945 Romanee-Conti. The wine list is categorised by body (Velvet and Smooth; Fresh and Zesty), price (Recession Proof; Crazy Stuff) or region (Kings of Bordeaux; Italian Powers). While this may not be the easiest way to navigate a wine list, it certainly is entertaining.

Attentive and informative without being intrusive. Not the most forthcoming about the wine recommendations but are able of suggesting competent pairings.

A meal for two is not cheap at Gold, coming in at around HK$2,400 for the tasting menu with a glass of wine and coffee each. Portions are large and will satisfy all but the most superlative of gluttons.