Gaylord is an oasis of sophistication hidden on the first floor of a Tsim Sha Tsui building that is somewhere between non-descript and shoddy. The well-appointed, tasteful interior includes a dark wood bar and carpeted stage where traditional Indian musicians play. While there is no view to speak of and the tables are a bit too closely crowded, the overall affect is one of elegant insulation against the outside world. Be warned, if you are looking forward to some dinner time conversation be sure to sit away from the stage; the musicians are excellent but not by any means quiet.

While Gaylord is not the best Indian restaurant in Hong Kong, it is a great destination for diners looking for a high-end Indian experience not in Chungking Mansions. The vegetable samosas are well flavoured but with a disappointing crust, but what really sets Gaylord apart is the authentic Indian dishes on the menu that are not often found outside of India. For example, the extensive selection of traditional Indian street food and dishes like the laal maas, “a pungent mutton delicacy from Rajasthan,” cooked with red chillies and freshly prepared herbs. The house signature saag paneer (HK$78), a “perfect combination of cheese and spinach” is truly excellent, but the chicken vindaloo, though advertised as the “godfather of chicken vindaloo HOT! HOT! HOT!” is disappointingly mild. For those looking for an even less spicy option, the malai jheenga curry of prawns in a coconut milk and cream curry (HK$148) is smooth, rich and lovely. Importantly, the garlic naan (HK$30) is excellent as are the traditional sides of raita yogurt and spicy achaar pickles. Save room for the well-prepared desserts, especially the sweet and filling gulab juman (HK$45).

There is a wine list at Gaylord with some interesting and very affordable choices but it is by no means extensive. Our server was quick with a great recommendation, which we really enjoyed. We also appreciated the list of classic cocktails that complemented Gaylord’s classic interior.

Our server was personable, knowledgeable and extremely funny. There was a missed order but the mistake was remedied immediately. Although it was very busy on the Friday night we were in attendance, waiters were never more than a quick wave away.

The value at Gaylord is very good. While no dirt-cheap Chungking eatery, Gaylord represents a remarkably affordable fine dining option in Tsim Sha Tsui.