A long winding gray corridor separates the beautifully appointed interior of The French Window from its rather less attractive location between a sushi chain and a gym in IFC. Once inside, diners are treated to stunning view of Kowloon through floor-to-ceiling windows and the ambience is elegant, with a muted gray palette and large, comfortable banquettes ideal for a romantic night out. Oversized gas-lamp fixtures and a tall wine cabinet serve as other points of interest, if you ever feel the conversation flagging.

Although the menu is not exactly suited to vegetarians, meat and fish lovers will find much to enjoy at The French Window. We start with a signature poached Belon oysters with crushed Agria seaweed and lemon sabayon. The oysters are wonderful, just barely cooked and a delight with the pickled greens. The sabayon is not necessary, especially as it had unappetisingly congealed on the piping hot plate. Keeping with the seafood, a main of fried sole fillet with Nantais butter cream is initially delightful. The fish is tender and juicy, but we soon find that it may just be a tad too juicy, as the liquid oozing out of the cut fish very soon dilutes the delicious butter and tarragon sauce. Also disappointing were the bed of greens under the sole, which were inedibly salty. A more successful main is a roasted whole pigeon with chard and truffle ravioli. The bird is cooked nicely and still pink in the middle, with just the right amount of astringency. The chard is also reasonably salted but here the flaw is the truffle ravioli. While there are no complaints with the truffle filling, the ravioli itself is undercooked. For dessert, a pistachio and chocolate biscuit is moist and light but marred by a mint-violette sorbet which while attractive, renders the cake slightly metallic-tasting. Much more enjoyable were our selections of French cheeses, chosen from the cheese trolley.

The wine list at The French Window predictably focuses much on French wines, with a good selection all the key regions. Other parts of the world that get a look-in are Italy, Spain, Australia with a smattering of other labels from Portugal, Lebanon, Chile and the US. The staff could be a bit better versed in their recommendations.

Although the staff try hard, the service at The French Window is not quite flawless. Cutlery can be heard clattering from across the restaurant, while our waiter got confused which wine glass held which wine when we opted to try two before ordering. However, a cart offering complimentary champagne which does the rounds at the beginning of the meal does much to ameliorate other mishaps.

A three-course meal for two including wine comes to about HK$2,000. Considering the stunning views, beautiful interiors and competent dishes, we would say this is not a bad deal.