Forum is all about doing things the old-school way – and doing it well. While the view is nothing to write home about, its central Causeway Bay location means that it’s right in the middle of the urban action. The decor and furnishings are unimaginative but comfortable, the tableside chatter audible but acceptable. An establishment dating back to 1977, Forum continues to be a magnet for the rich and famous, and founder “Ah Yat” himself can often be spotted greeting guests at the restaurant or sitting down for a quiet meal.

The menu at Forum is extensive, ranging from Cantonese classics to dishes that incorporate just a touch of Western ingredients or flavours. The Ah Yat goose liver fried rice (HK$440), for example, is one such dish that works. While the rice could use an extra pinch of salt, the liver is pleasingly fragrant without making the dish oily. Forum also does poultry particularly well. One of its signature dishes, the deep-fried crispy chicken (HK$500, available in half portions), is delightfully tender, and the same goes for the roasted pigeon (HK$220). Both dishes are well-seasoned, and are juicy without being too fat. Seafood-wise, the restaurant doesn’t do too badly either. The braised lobster tail (HK$380) is beautifully presented and the lobster is incredibly fresh and flavourful. However, the portion seems too small for the high price tag and the accompanying preserved ham is lukewarm and does very little for the dish. Forum can also be depended on for its vegetable dishes. The kale fried in garlic (HK$160) is perfectly cooked – the stalks are fried to just the right texture and served with the ideal amount of garlic. For a treat, and if money is no object, the famous Ah-Yat abalone is well worth a try.

The wine list seems to have been thrown together as an afterthought. The restaurant offers precious few mid-range options, vastly outnumbered by expensive four-figure bottles. Only one house pour is available and tasting is not allowed. The staff either know little about wine or are reluctant to share their knowledge. Their recommendations seem mostly to be based on budget.

The service has shown marked improvement in the past year. While still of the “casual Cantonese” school of thought, service now comes with a smile at the very least, and an impressive alacrity if you’re lucky.

Per head costs can vary widely. A meal with non-signature items will come to at least HK$500 a person, excluding wine. Factor in their renowned abalone, or bird’s nest, and the total can easily hit four or five digits.