Famous first in Shanghai as the restaurant by Willy, two Hong Kong fans loved the place so much they convinced chef Willy Trullas Moreno to allow them to open FoFo by Willy in Lan Kwai Fong. The Hong Kong kitchen is led by chef Alex Martinez Fargas, who like chef Moreno, is from Barcelona. “Fofo” is Spanish slang for “chubby”, a whimsical reference to the happy feeling you get from the sculpted big-bellied pig and penguins the designer integrated into the decor. Located on the 20th floor of an otherwise non-descript office tower, the floor-to-ceiling windows and stark white interior will enchant you, even before the food does. On temperate nights, it is worth inquiring about having a drink on the roof.

One modern take on a classic dish defines this restaurant - a deconstructed scallop ceviche with avocado and crispy shallots, presented beautifully with a sprinkling of delicate purple and yellow edible flower petals. Paired with a sparking cava and Iberian ham aged 36 months, it is the perfect way to begin your culinary grazing. Continue the seafood theme with traditional tapas fare, grilled sardine fillets with garlic, parsley and lemon and a round of succulent gambas al allijo. The simplicity of these dishes allows the flavours of the fish and the sweetness of the prawns to shine through. Progress to a truly innovative dish, beef cheek with banana and passion fruit crispy roll. More chewy than crispy, it is best defined as a fruity, meaty taste sensation. Try alternating bites with the crispy suckling pig with potato and mojo picon. Each tender, juicy morsel is topped with a perfectly crunchy pork rind. Dab a little homemade gravy on top and voilà – pork perfection. Make sure to leave room for dessert as the churros will transport you directly to the streets of Barcelona and the cheese plate is excellent value.

Wines by the glass range from HK$65 to HK$110 and hail from new world vines. The selection of wines by the bottle are heavy on Spanish wines, but other regions are represented too. Whites start at HK$380 per bottle, reds at HK$400 per bottle, skyrocketing to HK$18,800 for a premium wine.

Our server was able to explain the dishes and the source of the ingredients, always a good sign of a well-trained staff, the rest of whom work as an efficient team.

Dinner for two is about HK$1,000, including two glasses of wine. The portion sizes are small and those with larger appetites probably need to order more and incur a more expensive bill.