Guests can be forgiven for feeling they have stepped back in time when walking through the door at Chesa, The Peninsula’s iconic Swiss restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui. The doors have been open for over forty years and it is clear Chesa prides itself on its timelessness. Diners will also be transported geographically. The restaurant’s dark wood panelling, close spaces and Alpine details flawlessly recreate the atmosphere of an authentic Swiss chalet. Don’t expect a view or any modern bells and whistles but do be prepared to forget entirely that you are in a hotel in Hong Kong.

Diners expecting surprises will be disappointed with Chesa but those with a taste for nostalgia who appreciate a well-cooked meal will feel right at home. Chesa turns out the classics, skillfully prepared and without pretense. The crabmeat pancake with lobster Armagnac cappuccino (HK$260) may sound like nouveau cuisine but this is a dish your grandmother would have enjoyed. The pancake is stuffed full of flavourful fresh crab meat but the dish really comes into its own when we use one of Chesa’s delicious dinner rolls to mop up the sauce. Of course the fondue is a must-order. The fondue vaudoise, traditional Swiss fondue with Gruyere and emmental served with baguette (HK$200), is exactly how it should be: flavourful, perfectly textured and filling to the point of being over-whelming. Those craving a non-fondue entrée should try the sliced veal with mushrooms in a light cream sauce (HK$320). Another comforting dish, the veal is tender and delicious while the potato pancake shines when soaked in the creamy mushroom sauce. Whatever you do, do not miss the chalet Suisse (HK$145). This blast from the past is a perfect end to a rich meal but insiders know to substitute the vanilla with the decadent salted caramel ice cream.

Chesa has an impressive wine list encompassing fine wines from all over the globe. The Swiss wines are especially worth a taste. Be warned, the list is definitely high end and drinkers looking for a selection of affordable bottles may need to stick to the extensive half-bottle list.

The service here is impeccable. The staff is professional without being stuffy. They are knowledgeable about the menu and the wine list and are full of good advice.

Dinner for two will cost about HK$2,000. Although not cheap by any means, a dinner at Chesa is a special occasion and you certainly get what you pay for.