Amidst the chaos of rush hour in Soho and nestled amongst a string of popular eateries on Elgin Street is the subtle ambience of Cecconi’s. The decor is minimalist and the neutral colours spell for a relatively peaceful experience and is the perfect setting for a date night or dinner with a group of close friends. However, the tables are placed a bit too close for comfort as well as being too small, and we can’t help but feel there is an accident waiting to happen with the rectangular plates and bulky wine glasses.

Cecconi’s style is immediately clear from the menu, consisting of classic Italian dishes with a few modern twists. We start with the house speciality of beef carpaccio with truffled mushrooms, garlic aioli and shaved parmesan (HK$128) that is beautifully presented, boasting complementary flavours, with the use of truffled mushrooms a welcome addition to this ubiquitous dish. The steamed asparagus with San Daniele proscuitto, poached egg, shaved parmesan and truffle oil (HK$118) is cooked to perfection, although the yolk of the egg is anaemic in colour. A serving of lobster ravioli, sauce verge (HK$188) is disappointingly lacklustre, with an unpleasant rubbery texture. Next up is the pancetta wrapped chicken breast stuffed with garlic and cream cheese (HK$178) which is succulent and balanced well by the accompanying crisp bitter leaves. The peppered duck breast and confit duck leg with sweet potato mash and lime jus (HK$188) is not as heavy as one would expect, thanks to the smatterings of lime zest, which enliven the gaminess of the meat. Both the pavlova roulade with Prosecco cream and fresh fruits (HK$78) and soft centred chocolate pudding with pistachio ice cream and warm cherries (HK$78) are a stunning way to end a meal.

Cecconi’s wine list consists of a wide selection of Italian wines and a fair assortment of wines from Australia, New Zealand, the US, France and South Africa. The “Sommelier’s Choice” section is as extensive as it is informative and the price range considers all budgets, including a wide selection of red, white and sparkling available by the glass.

The staff is attentive without interfering, knowledgeable and cheerful, rectifying mistakes promptly and painlessly. However, on a slow night, kitchen staff should avoid standing at the pass staring blankly at customers.

Dinner for two will tally HK$400 per person and up, excluding wine. While the service is impeccable, the quality of the food needs to be more consistent.