Casa Lisboa channels the lively spirit of Portugal patriotically and well. Unrelated to the Casa Lisboa in Soho during the 1990s, the latest arrival in Lan Kwai Fong is stuffed with typical Portuguese motifs such as blue and white-tiled decor, colourful stained glass fixtures, cast iron furnishing, wine-red velvet seatings, as well as the Moorish arches in the private rooms. Portuguese cured meat are hung at a counter top in the centre of the main dining area, including links of the nationally-beloved sausage, chourico (Portugal’s version of chorizo).

Martinho Moniz, who’s most recent stint at Santo Amaro at five-star hotel Pestana Palace in Portugal, does a fine job of channelling both staunchly traditional Portuguese cooking as well as more original adaptations. Theatrical presentation has been thrown in with good measure to grab diner’s attention. There’s the chourico pork sausages (HK$95) set aflame tableside on a hilarious terracotta dish shaped like a suckling pig. But the laughter weathers down when you bite into the chopped up sausages, each piece so tough and leathery that chewing becomes a tiring chore. Bacalhau, the country’s nationally beloved salty codfish, makes a regular appearance on the menu, such as a bacalhau cream croquette pastry (HK$85) with a hedgehog-like exterior studded with needle-thin pasta. Again, an unexpected and whimsical sight but unlike the earlier sausage dish, this one actually tasted as fun as it looked: full of crunch and a myriad of flavours from the rich custard-like centre offering a tart contrast to the salty fish. Diners will note the major differences between Portuguese and Spanish cooking in the paella. Here, they arrive almost risotto-like (loose and a little watery) as that’s how it’s done in Portugal. Try the lobster and seafood rice (HK$390) jam-packed with crabs, prawns, clams, vegetables and seasonings, plus plump lobsters cooked separated than planted onto the dish to retain the seafood’s plump and juicy nature. Roasted suckling pig Barirrada style (HK$235) is another winner topped with a thin layer of crackling, exceptionally tender meat underneath and meltingly rich fat in between; another indulgent dish with excellent cooking at play.

The collection is utterly nationalistic. Portuguese wines and ports take the reign especially reds and decades-aged fine ports. Other country favourites include vinho verde (green wines), which makes a small appearance including the genre’s most sought-after varietal Albarinho. Shame then that the by-the-glass selection is severely limited leaving diners too few opportunities to sample these Portuguese wineries let alone drink more than one type throughout dinner. Sangria is excellent though, available by the jug.

The enthusiastic staff is attentive without being overbearing, well-paced without being too hurried.

A hearty Portuguese feast for two at two courses per person, plus a jug of sangria, is approximately HK$1,000.