The majestic Parisian restaurant, Le Cinq, provided the original inspiration for Caprice, even so far as importing chef Eric Briffard’s deputy, Vincent Thierry, to Hong Kong. Heavy and exquisite Chinese-influenced teardrop crystal chandeliers hang elegantly over the narrow yet entirely regal main dining area. An open kitchen overlooks the diners from the rear while patrons, for the most part, are afforded a predominantly unobstructed view of Hong Kong harbour. Tables are widely spaced allowing for a degree of separation between diners but intimacy can also be found in the gorgeous private dining rooms located behind large, dark wooden doors. Soft lighting and tall ceilings provide an ambiance which is only ever counteracted by a full dining room, at which point the volume can rise significantly.

From start to finish diners are immersed in Gallic flair: Brittany lobster, Challans duck, Normandy sole, Racan pigeon, Bresse guinea fowl and a heavenly cheese board featuring Hong Kong’s largest selection of French artisanal cheeses are just a few of the French items in almost alphabetical order on the menu. A wild game pâté with mixed greens and black truffle dressing is a traditional dish without any sense of irony: there are no foams, sponges or frozen additions here, this is French cuisine at its most rustic and although a little dry for some, is a perfect throwback to a country brasserie. The langoustine ravioli with veal sweetbreads and chanterelle mushrooms in shellfish bisque is delightfully rich but is more of a sauce than a bisque. The addition of sweetbreads adds a touch of brawn to an otherwise delicate dish. We continually applaud restaurants which exhibit a sustainable approach to meat and seafood and Caprice is no exception. The braised line-caught sea bass topped with farm-raised caviar, topinambours and fondant leeks in a champagne emulsion is a clean and light dish but requires every element in each bite in order to attain a satisfying level of piquance. A Challans duck fillet is so tender it hints at a sous-vide method of cooking, while the celery orzo pasta and giblet fricassee in black truffle jus is a good complement as is the slightly vanilla-scented beet on the side.

Wine pairings are excellent, ranging from a Puligny-Montrachet to Saint-Estephe, and the sommelier is extremely knowledgeable. Bottles cover a budget of several hundred dollars to stratospheric levels of very rare, and very vintage classics.

Impeccable and imperiously attentive, it is a rare moment that you’ll go wanting for something without it being anticipated and then promptly seen to.

Decadent portions and traditional recipes hint at class and history over absolute refinement and cutting-edge innovation, and this is entirely in keeping with its gorgeous surroundings. A meal for two with wine will come to about HK$3,500, not at all an unreasonable amount to pay for a wonderful meal.