It would take a stoic diner not to be impressed by the setting at Café Gray Deluxe, particularly on one’s maiden visit. Occupying the 49th floor of the Upper House hotel in Admiralty, it offers perhaps the best harbour vista of any restaurant on Hong Kong island, and a dramatic backdrop to any meal. Muted tones and low lighting after dark allow the view to shine in the main dining area, while the adjacent long, sleek bar is a fitting and popular spot at which to enjoy a tipple from the Café Gray’s celebrated mixology team. An open kitchen on the far side adds a touch of theatre.

Given that chef Gray Kunz was born in Singapore, learned his trade in Switzerland, and found fame in New York and Hong Kong, one might expect his food to be a mélange of influences, and it is. With a focus on fresh, quality and increasingly organic ingredients, the best dishes at Café Gray deliver a subtle medley of flavours and provenances presented with style and panache. Crab bisque (HK$145) is a case in point, the French classic given a South-East Asian twist with a hint of tarragon and accompanied by a zesty crabmeat salad served in the shell. Saffron pasta fiore (HK$125) is a light and understated affair that lets its ingredients, particularly the fresh tomatoes and lemon thyme, flourish. Main course choices are varied and intriguing, including red curry snapper (HK$275), lemon sole grenobloise (HK$385) and seared Iberico pork chop (HK$355), the latter of which features a lip-smackingly juicy cut of meat atop a mound of creamed morels, fava beans and cavatelli. The standout, however, is the signature braised beef short rib (HK$325). Perhaps the most richly flavoured dish on the menu, the melt-in-the-mouth flesh is complemented by a base of soft polenta with Meaux mustard. Desserts tend towards the classic-with-a-twist variety: “coffee-toffee” crème brûlée with Kahlua espresso granité (HK$95) offers a surprisingly refreshing finale, while key lime tart (HK$95) has a satisfying tang and a crunchy butter shortbread crust. If we must criticise the food, it must be said that while the quality is consistently high, there are no dishes that truly wow the seasoned palate – but that is unlikely to put many people off what is a generally stellar dining experience.

The wine list at Café Gray is what you might call ‘just right’: extensive without being overwhelming, varied without being gimmicky, and likely to appeal to both the neophyte and the connoisseur. There is a good spread of old and new world wines by the glass or bottle (from HK$85/HK$400), as well as an emphasis on notable vintages from Burgundy and Bordeaux.

Anticipating need is key to good service, and the staff here does that very well. The affable servers are also knowledgeable on the finer points of menu, and adept at making recommendations.

An accomplished three-course dinner costs about HK$600. A set lunch menu is available, priced at HK$295 for two courses or HK$355 for three, a great restaurant for impressive business lunches.