Sexy and intimate New York speakeasy, circa the Roaring ‘20s, is the setting for a meal at Bloom. An impressive wall of wine glasses divides the dining room into two – the front room where a raw bar is on display and the back room where leather banquettes pair with dark wood tables and floors. A high ceiling and beautiful dimly lit chandeliers add to the intimate vibe.

Bloom offers modern, upscale renditions of hearty American fare, with a touch of whimsy. The raw bar includes an offering of five varieties of oysters, which change daily, as well as abalone, clams, prawns, lobsters and several creative ceviches, including a giant clam ceviche prepared with green curry and lime. Grilled calamari, one of Bloom’s signature dishes, tastes as if it was just taken off a charcoal grill and is served with a tiny portion of rich potato salad that adds another dimension of texture and flavour to the dish. The must-order entree at Bloom is the Iberico pork chop and smoked ribs duo, another signature dish. The pork chop is over one-and-a-half inches thick yet cooked perfectly – juicy, full of flavour and tender. The ribs are nearly fall-off-the-bone and wonderfully imbued with smoky cumin, and the dish is rounded off with a delicious sour and sweet braised red cabbage, which perfectly balances the heaviness of the meat. A lighter option is the broiled black cod with garlic-miso rosemary glaze, served on a bed of beets and apricots. Sides are disappointing and should be skipped. Instead, save room for dessert, which include Bloom’s take on classic favorites such as banana cream pie and strawberry shortcake.

Although the wine list at Bloom is not extensive, it is carefully selected to include something for everyone. A good choice to accompany red meats is The Scribbler’08, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz blend from Yalumba, which is offered by the glass for HK$95.

Service is extremely attentive – almost overly attentive, with waitstaff stopping by constantly to check if you are enjoying your meal.

A bit pricey for what you get – portion sizes are small, with the exception of the Iberico pork chop and smoked ribs, which is decent value for an excellent dish. Dinner for two will cost about HK$1000, excluding wine.