Bistecca, the Italian steak house in Lan Kwai Fong, is a fun and rowdy destination for a meal among friends. The relatively small space and low ceilings mean that the noise level can go dramatically high especially on a packed night, but that is part of the overall experience. Reminiscent of an old-fashioned butcher shop, Bistecca showcases thick and juicy slabs of raw meat in glass cases and meat lockers, an open kitchen, complete with wooden furniture and low lighting that give off a rustic and homey ambience.

Though the starters are good and a selection of pasta, fish and other meats like lamb and chicken are on the menu, it is really the steaks that make Bistecca a cut above the rest. This is the place for carnivores to come to enjoy its namesake - the “Bistecca alla Fiorentina”, which refers to a Tuscan style of grilling massive, thick cuts of porterhouse or T-bone. At Bistecca, you have the added plus of ordering an inch-thick 32oz Fiorentina wagyu beef from Oakleigh Ranch, exclusively served here. A warning on the size: it is so large it can easily serve three to four persons, so order your starters and sides with care. We started off by nibbling on the standard serving of crunchy fresh vegetables such as carrots and celery served with a creamy dip - an apt preparation for the protein onslaught that is to come. The signature fontina fondue with white truffle (HK$108) is a comforting and flavourful starter. The creamy, light-flavoured cheese comes melted in a platter and perfect when dipping the warm, charcoal-grilled bruschetta. The only downside is that the taste of the truffles was almost negligible. Top quality proscuitto, culatello di zebello and speck (HK$198) comes next, before our steak arrives. We opted for our steak to be prepared Chicago-style - meaning charred on the outside - where the beef is deliciously rubbed with peppercorns, salt and olive oil - and cooked to order on the inside. In respect of how Bistecca is traditionally served, we chose for it to come rare - and though a “blue rare” option is also available, that extreme was unnecessary as this one already came with a cool centre and bright-red tinge throughout. The look of the steak was mouth-watering and each bite into the tender, juicy meat is a heavenly and savoury mouthful. A number of sauces on the side such as porcini, chianti mustard, salsa verde, yellow and red pepper ketchup are available, though the meat is so flavourful sauces were unnecessary. The only downside is that the steaks come in limited options of sizes, so to try the Fiorentina wagyu beef, for example, you can’t order a size that only fits two persons, you’d have to order the Canadian or US beef. Numerous sides are also available such as cremini mushrooms and bone marrow or charred corn, but the main course was so heavy that we were grateful for the simple, light and tangy complement offered by the mixed green salad recommended by our waiter.

There is fittingly a focus on red wines at Bistecca, and a good selection of boutique as well as top producers on the list. From the Bistecca Cellar Collection, wine notes and awards from the likes of Wine Spectator, Decanter and Robert Parker helps in the decision-making process, as well as a helpful breakdown of wines according to body. However, regions represented are limited, with wines mostly from New Zealand and Italy.

Though the warmth and big smiles of the staff go a long way to offsetting the hiccups we experienced, Bistecca definitely needs to improve on efficiency. Our table was still occupied when we arrived for our reservation, and instead of letting us sit down in one of the many other available tables, we were made to stand and wait for 20 minutes, though a glass of champagne was served to ease the wait. Requests have to put in twice at times because it is either forgotten or takes too long to arrive.

Dinner for two averages around HK$800 a head with wine, though if you’re a bigger party sharing the sizeable portions, this can become significantly less, overall making it good value for the quality you’re getting.