The first Hong Kong dining venture of lauded native restaurateur Alan Yau (he of UK-based Wagamama, Hakkasan and Yauatcha fame), Bettys Kitschen has made a bright entrance. Literally, as guests are greeted by a pair of floor-to-ceiling grocers’ racks handsomely stocked with colourful fruit and veg. After this vibrant welcoming cornucopia, the interior is surprisingly restrained. A muted colour palette helps to foster a relaxed vibe, while a superabundance of ceiling fans and a scattering of stripped-bare dangling lights add quirky nuances, all courtesy of designer Andre Fu. A harbour view graces one side of the space, while there are two semi-private dining areas at the far end.

Having made his name serving Asian food in Europe, it makes a perverse kind of sense that Yau would choose to focus on European cuisine for his first foray in Asia. Taillevent meat pie (HK$288) is a germane appetiser as the weather cools. This rustic pastry is filled with a flavourful combination of rabbit, pork, duck and foie gras, while a black truffle jus begs to be mopped up with each forkful. While not the most original dish on the menu, a duo carpaccio of sea scallops and Brittany lobster, truffles and avocado dressing (HK$378) features markedly fresh ingredients, simply presented. On to mains, and stuffed calamari (HK$228) offers a compelling mélange of flavours and textures. Three oval pieces of squid are stuffed with piperade, a traditional Basque Country combination of red and green bell pepper, onions and tomatoes, plus chorizo, and plated atop the moreish Venere black rice and lobster sauce. Thirty-six-hour braised short ribs, manuka honey and soy glaze (HK$398) comes as one large, brazen US rib that should arouse the interest of any committed carnivore. The meat is nicely marbled, moist and tender, while the honey/soy coating gives it a lip-smacking umami sweetness. One of the more intriguing dishes on the menu is the whole lemon confit tart (HK$118), which is immersed in syrup for at least 72 hours then filled with lemon sorbet, grapefruit sorbet and lemon curd to create a satisfyingly offbeat take on the dessert. But give the crème brûlée (HK$98) a miss; it’s somewhat oddly served in a wide, shallow bowl and failed the all-important spoon-cracking test.

The wine list is relatively compact but offers amble breadth of choice across old and new world as well as well- and lesser-known names. Vintages from Bordeaux and Burgundy are well represented, as are Tuscan wines, and there are 14 tipples available by the glass.

Despite being obliged to wear green corduroy waistcoats (guys) and ruffled pseudo-kilts (girls) that make them look like escapees from a Scottish or Irish theme bar, the staff are friendly and welcoming, particularly the sommelier, a composed and deferential chap. A couple of misdelivered orders during our visit suggests there’s still some work to be done, however.

A three-course dinner for two, without wine, is about HK$1,500; middling value for this part of town. A five-course set menu and a seven-course tasting menu are also available, priced HK$698 and HK$998, respectively.