Given its location in the strikingly modern Cubus building, it is something of a surprise to emerge into Bella Vita’s traditional setting. One side of the narrow restaurant is entirely taken up by a large dark wood shelving unit, its many compartments neatly stocked with all manner of tempting foodstuffs, from artisanal olive oils and balsamic vinegars to jars of peppers, olives and the like. A large rectangular opening in the middle of this wall of food gives a glimpse into the kitchen. Opposite, the windowed side looks out at the streets far below. A private room at the far end features a rustic fresco, while there is also a small outdoor balcony.

The menu – like the chef, Francesco Pasquini – is proudly Tuscan, and dishes combine a home-style heartiness with stylish presentation. Grilled octopus with black pepper and green apple salad (HK$198) features four generous chunks of smoky tentacle atop a bed of thinly sliced fruit, making for a satisfying combination of flavours and textures. Smoked swordfish and burrata cheese (HK$218) arrives in four neat little parcels on strips of minted zucchini carpaccio. The creaminess of the cheese is enhanced by the salty-smokiness of the fish, while the zucchini provides a fresh and subtle counterpoint. On to mains, and chitarrini egg pasta gratinated with pancetta, parmesan and black truffle (HK$268) is Tuscan comfort food perfection, flavour-filled strips of meat mingling with the aromatic truffle shavings and cheese to hit all the right notes. Cacciucco (HK$398), a spicy Tuscan seafood soup, is another dish that warms the soul and seduces the palate in equal measures. Packed with succulent pieces of lobster, scallop, mussels, clams and calamari in a lightly spiced tangy broth, it had us mopping up every last drop with the accompanying garlic bruschetta. For dessert, fresh-baked white chocolate cake with berry coulis (HK$88) was a confident rendition, oozing gooey sweetness at the touch of a fork. But don’t miss the tiramisu (HK$88), which combines a crème-brûlée-smooth top and a mouth-wateringly moist sponge layer to intoxicating effect.

The wine list here, as one might expect, is overwhelmingly Italian, with a well-chosen selection covering most of the main regions, including a strong showing from Tuscany. There are also a number of heavy hitters from Burgundy and Bordeaux, eight champagnes, and a short list of new world tipples, but really, Italian is the way to go here. There are also seven Italian wines available by the glass, priced from HK$118.

Service is friendly and attentive, and the staff has a good knowledge of the dishes on the menu. Although there is not a sommelier per se, our server made solid recommendations on wine to accompany our meal.

A three-course meal, without wine and service, costs about HK$700, which is excellent value given the quality of the food. A four-course set menu is available for HK$680.