In terms of appearance, Ayuthaiya blends in well amongst its Soho neighbours. The space is cramped but well-appointed with dark wood and a good contrast of modern details and traditional Thai elements. It occupies an enviable piece of real estate at the base of the Central escalators and consists of two floors, a bar with seating downstairs and more seating for diners upstairs. Although not as mobbed as in days gone by, it is still worth making a reservation as Ayuthaiya remains one of Central’s most popular Thai dining destinations.

Ayuthaiya represents an island of flavour and creativity in Soho’s sea of mediocrity. The starter of steamed dumplings with red curry salmon is delicious and shows that Ayuthaiya is not afraid to dabble in fusion cuisine. The thoughtful blending of a traditional wonton and Thai salmon curry is near flawless, although could have been improved by being served hotter. Another popular starter is the seafood with red curry and Thai herbs steamed in a banana leaf. It is a subtler dish than the dumplings but delicate and delicious nonetheless. Another exceptional dish is the pomelo salad with shredded chicken and shrimp. The salad is extraordinarily flavourful and well prepared with a good balance of spice and sweetness, although would have benefited from additional shrimp. For mains, the green curry with chicken, pork, squid or vegetable is another excellent dish. We had ours with chicken and it held up nicely next to the curries we have had in Thailand. Ayuthaiya does not shy away from spice so be warned; the fried rice pineapple with seafood and chicken served in a pineapple bowl, offers a sweet and mild counter point to the fiery curries.

The wine list at Ayuthaiya is small but very good. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into the wine selection and the staff are ready with good recommendations. Ayuthaiya also seems to be a cocktail destination and their cocktail list is well worth a look.

Even on a busy Friday night the staff were attentive and easy to flag down. They are very knowledgeable about the menu and wine list and are ready with recommendations.

While not cheap, Ayuthaiya offers good value especially since such good food and professional service in Soho is so hard to come by.