Aux Beaux Arts in the MGM has an external area which overlooks the piazza in the hotel which is covered by a huge sky dome. While some may prefer sitting in this smoking area with its fairy lights, we found it to be artificially bright and retreated instead into the large dining room. With its dark wood, warm orange lighting and general brasserie feel, this is a much more cosy and welcoming dining area. Waiters carrying large silver-domed plates around the restaurant as well as the chef coming out with his trolley to flambé tableside lend a certain drama to the experience.

The menu at Aux Beaux Arts is classic French brasserie with an oyster shucker, bouillabaisse, onion soup and beef tartar. It would be a shame to start without at least half a dozen of the all-French oysters, which arrive on an ice platter clearly labelled with the varietal name. The selection offers a good range in terms of sweetness, brininess and size. Our other starter of lobster bisque is less of a hit. Surprisingly for a restaurant with a live seafood station, the bisque lacks the sweetness of the crustaceans and lean towards an unappetisingly grey-brown colour. We much prefer the steak tartar, which is tartly seasoned and could only be improved if the meat was a little less finely chopped. Moving onto mains, the rigatoni with poached egg and pata negra is comforting if a bit too heavy. While the flavours are divine, the dish would have been lighter and more appetising if a smaller pasta than rigatoni was used, the Spanish ham was in smaller pieces, and the egg yolk was the primary sauce rather than the generous dollop of Parmesan cream. The orange-glazed duck is also disappointing: while impressively presented with a whole duck sliced and resting on a pyramid of potato balls, the texture of the bird itself is mealy. Also, the dish is best shared between two or even three. For desserts, we opt for the signature chocolate cake with vanilla salt and vanilla ice cream. We like the addition of the unusual vanilla salt and it is certainly a solid dessert, but nothing extraordinary.

The MGM master list is quite a tome and while there was no sommelier at Aux Beaux Arts at the time of our visit, the staff are more than capable of providing recommendations and pairings. There is a good range of wines from both the old and new world, with the focus primarily on France, followed by Portugal. Impressive bottles include vertical selections of grand crus, including a Lafite Rothschild from 1870 for a million MOP.

The staff at Aux Beaux Arts are friendly, capable and efficient. However, it is worth remembering that waits between courses can be leisurely, and it is certainly not a restaurant one would rush into to grab a bite before heading back to the tables.

A four-course meal for two including oysters and wine comes to about MOP1,700. Considering the ambience and the giant portion sizes, this is quite good value for money.