The warm, muted tones of Amber at the Landmark Mandarin in Central convey an understated elegance that is best experienced during the evening. Sit underneath the main dining room’s centrepiece of thousands of bronze rods or opt for the private dining rooms surrounded by glass walls as well as the restaurant’s impressive wine collection displayed in all its glory, which would be ideal as a special occasion destination.

The creative French cuisine of chef Richard Ekkebus remains on top of its game, thanks to the exacting focus on quality produce, adventurous combinations, and wonderful and detailed presentation. The emphasis is on seasonality - from Australian winter truffles to Brittany lobster in September - which Ekkebus harnesses to create light and unexpected combinations that still allow each ingredient to make their mark. You’ll constantly be surprised by the inventive amuse bouche that reflects the chef’s whimsy for the day, and for appetisers, sample some Amber classics such as Hokkaido sea urchin, served on top of lobster jell-o and cauliflower crowned by caviar, a rich spoonful of textures and flavours in each bite complemented by the crunchy crispy seaweed waffle served on the side. The duck foie gras and spiny lobster ravioli is cleaner in taste, but no less rich on the palate as it comes simmered with preserved black truffles and a green garden pea velouté. Move on to either the red amadai, whose fresh and moist white flesh is delightfully complemented by crunchy skin rounded off by the tangy fennel and orange confit and grated new potatoes served on the side or the succulent lamb sourced from one of the top producers in Aveyron served with a side of smoked aubergine and ratatouille. The light-as-air abinao 85% chocolate soufflé with brown rum anglaise is one of the best in town, as is the excellent curated selection of French farmer cheeses. Can’t make up your mind? The nine-course degustation menu ensures you get to sample all the Amber favourites, while The Landmark Menu focuses on the latest seasonal speciality.

The wine list is both impressive and thoughtful, with a selection of some of the more dominant French winemakers as well as lesser-known regions. Wines by the carafe are also available. The knowledgeable staff is confidently able to guide you through the best pairings with your meal.

Stellar service all around - impeccably trained, with an eye for detail, but with a warmth and friendliness often lost in such high-end restaurants. They go out of their way to ensure you’re comfortable and the knowledge of the team of the menu and cuisine makes them stand out from the rest.

At an average of HK$1,500 per person for dinner, the price of dining here is by no means cheap but on par with most restaurants of its calibre. However, taking into account the quality of the food, wine and service, Amber is an ideal splurge.