Al Molo in Tsim Sha Tsui is definitely a New York City import, laid out in macho, industrial themes of iron fittings and decorative strip lighting. But this is all tempered with rustic Italian colours and textures, such as mosaic flooring, stonework, carved wood, and even the odd cherub. The wow factor is of course the staggering harbour view, drawing in the tourist crowd like flies to honey – though the main dining room is filled with more local diners, walk-in guests can be comfortably seated at the outdoor terrace and enjoy one of the most famous panoramas in the world.

Al Molo has obviously given thought to the quality of its ingredients, but great cuisine is more than just about the produce: it is also a balancing act on the palate and this is where the Italian restaurant disappoints. This is evident from the Salsiccia pizza - salty pork sausage is beautifully paired against astringent broccoli rabe, but these sprinkled toppings are overwhelmed by lashings of peperoncino and scamarza cheese. The lobster is promising, with well proportioned claw and tail meat in fragrant bagna cauda sauce, but the bitterness of the broccoli rabe – which ought to play nicely with the tomato concasse and chopped olives - proves too much for the other condiments. Chef Michael White is rightly proud of his pastas and his semolina pasta with clams and squid is satisfyingly al dente, though the powerful fishy flavours may be too much for some and the spicy tomato never quite shines through. A dish that merits unstinting praise is the ossobuco: a braised veal shank, with bone marrow, saffron risotto and sautéed spinach – the meat is delectably tender, and the vivid bed of risotto is as tasty as it is inviting. The tartaletta is an equally well-executed dessert: smooth chocolate on gooey caramel, contrasted perfectly against a crispy hazelnut crust and citrus zabaglione. The coppetta is less successful, as while the Morella cherry granita‘s tart iciness is decidedly moreish, the delicate Sicilian honey yoghurt mousse is drowned.

Despite the American roots of the restaurant, the wine selection focuses closely on Italy with only a glimpse from other parts of the world. It offers a strong representation of affordable and acceptable IGT and DOC Italian wines, as well as premium DOCG wines by the bottle for those who want more.

Service is competent and unobtrusive, as well as willing to show initiative. Manager Gianmarco is there to lend Benigni-esque charm, waxing lyrical on underrated artisan grappas.

Given the prime harbour front location, the big-name chef and generous portions, the menu – with almost all items under HK$200 – is surprisingly affordable. Our meal for two, including wine, came to about HK$1,100.