The overriding themes of The 8 at the Grand Lisboa are fish and circles, both auspicious symbols in Chinese culture. Step through a dark corridor with projected images of fish swimming at your feet and into the main dining room, where circular booths are separated by curtains resembling chains of jade pendants. The dark wood and marble floors suggest that this is a more formal restaurant than Portas do Sol, the Lisboa’s other Chinese restaurant in the Hotel Lisboa.

The 8 has an extensive menu, including whole pages devoted to classic Cantonese delicacies of bird’s nest and abalone. What is more exciting, however, are The 8’s modern interpretations of Chinese cuisine. Take, for example, an appetiser of deep-fried shrimp mousse filled with goose liver pâté. The deep-fried ball consists of more shrimp than goose liver, but nevertheless, it is a tasty and moist way to whet your appetite. The restaurant is equally confident with more traditional starters, such as the steamed crab claw with egg white and vintage Chinese wine, which is juicy and showcases the freshness of the crab delicately. Moving onto main courses, the shredded chicken with crispy skin and pomelo with honey and lime sauce may sound like a fusion nightmare but do take a chance as you will be delightfully surprised by this light and flavourful dish that is perfect for the summer. Conversely, for heartier fare that is perfect for winter, the suckling pig stuffed with fried rice and preserved meat is a must-try. A tiny piglet with just the right amount of fat is wrapped around surprisingly non-oily sticky rice accompanied with Chinese sausage, this dish sells out quickly so we would recommend pre-ordering it. In most Cantonese restaurants, vegetables tend to be served as just a single variety, which is why we like the poached scallop with dried shrimp, glass noodles and vegetables in broth. The hot pot comes with a variety of vegetables including bak choi, choi sum, cabbage and kale, making it a healthier and more interesting dish. The only downside is that the vegetables may be on the soft side, as they will keep cooking away in the hot broth. Finally, finish the meal with a simple, old-fashioned hot beancurd pudding with ginger syrup.

Naturally, with access to Lisboa’s master wine list, wine-lovers will be very happy with the selections at The 8. For those who prefer tea with their Chinese meals, the restaurant also offers a good selection of premium Chinese teas such as long jing from Hangzhou, oolong from Taiwan and vintage pu er, aged 48 years.

The staff at The 8 is helpful, familiar with the large menu and confident with recommendations. They are, however, busy, so sometimes finished dishes may be left on the table or not cleared promptly. That is a minor flaw though, as the service overall is efficient.

A meal for two with wine, and without delicacies such as abalone, bird’s nest or live seafood, will come to a very reasonable MOP800. Considering the superior quality of the ingredients used at The 8, this is a bargain indeed.