From the folks behind The Pawn and The Press Room is this highly anticipated eatery that will boost their rep for creating highly conceptual and trendsetting-dining destinations. SML, as in ‘Small, Medium and Large,' is an experimental dining operation that is governed by size. In contrast to the familiar format of starters, mains and desserts served in restricted portions, this newcomer is tweaking the formula so you can sample everything on the menu now available in multi-sized options. Co-founder of The Press Room Group Alan Lo claims that this is their attempt to "introduce a completely new democratic dining experience that is both dynamic and choice driven." Small tapas-like plates are fitting for diners with children or grown ups here for a bite-sized grazing; medium dishes are suited for singletons; and hearty portions cater to those dining in large groups who are eager to share. SML strives to fulfill various appetites and needs from this something-for-everyone menu.

The owners have gone to great lengths to make this space is atmospheric and original. There's a Pepto-Bisal coloured art piece at the entrance, a hard-to-miss 8-feet tall ‘SML Baby' created by homegrown artist, Michael Lau. Inside, London's esteemed design expert, Alexi Robinson fashioned this clean-lined communal dining room swathed in natural blond wood and artsy light fixtures. There's little resemblance to Arirang, a bustling and bold coloured Korean restaurant which previously occupied this space for years. All the booths separated by paper and wood partitions have gone and SML stripped it all out to craft an open plan and airy space. The open kitchen out back is in a frenzy with squads of chefs juggling the complicated task of taking orders in multi-sized portions and matching them with the appropriate plates. Coupled with rows and rows of patrons seated in communal tables and chatting away, there is nothing quiet about your experience at SML. Essentially, it all adds up to a very European looking space fitting for their Mediterranean menu. Surprisingly, there's also an outdoor terrace, a rare feature for a restaurant in this building. According to a spokesperson for the establishment, the outdoor space was here all along but the previous tenants never utilized it. SML realized the area's potential and fitted it out with patio-like seatings and plenty of foliage to create a leafy and loungey urban garden.

SML's experiment on size-orientated dining is applied to a broad menu on Mediterranean food. Expect Italian, French, British, Greek, and even Middle Eastern options that arrive in fancy, spruced up presentation. A salmon tartar (from HK$32 to HK$108) for example arrives in a novel fashion: chopped herbs and spices are lined around the plate towards the centre of the raw fish, while raw quail eggs rest on top of the seafood along with a shot of fresh lemon juice on the side. Everything is mixed and consolidated in the centre; the result is a zingy tartar with a gentle heat from the chopped red chilies. Other highlights include a lovely crispy pork belly on a bed of red lettuce coleslaw (from HK$41 to HK$138); spicy meatballs (from HK$29 to HK$98); and grilled, garlicky prawns (from HK$62 to HK$208). Most of SML's dishes have gourmet touches, including French fries sprinkled with crushed sea salt and black truffle bits (from HK$14 to $45).

 

Unlike the restaurant group's previous establishments, the prices at SML are accessible to all kinds of wallets, especially with the inclusion of opting economically sized plates. Drinks-wise, the wine selection is still a work in progress. They have installed an Enomatic wine dispenser, which stores multiple open bottles so you can sample a range of labels with a swipe of a pay-as-you-go-card. This automated wine system gives patrons a choice of 15mls, a half or full glass of wine, which is a fitting gadget for this multi-option-themed restaurant. On several levels, from the culinary to aesthetic, SML has made sure everything is completely in sync with its core concept, which isn't just about size. It's making sure that everybody has more freedom to choose so they can stick around and try new and more things in this gourmet playground.

For more information, call +852 2577-3444 or go to 11/F, Times Square, Food Forum, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay.