The diversity of Japanese cuisine is a major attraction in appreciating the various delights from the land of the rising sun. Sushi and sashimi, teppanyaki, tempura, suki-yaki, yakiniku and shabu-shabu, among others, all tempt with their appealing distinctiveness.
However, it is the thought of indulging in a kaiseki meal that never fails to excite many. Anticipating not only the seasonal food, but also the presentation, service and ambience, is a great lead-up to the meal itself.
Recorded as far back as the 16th century, kaiseki is a formal Japanese meal that is held in high esteem by gourmands. Kyoto is said to be the birthplace, where Buddhist monks helped to highlight this style of eating. Originally served prior to a Japanese tea ceremony, kaiseki is now available in discerning restaurants and looked upon as haute cuisine.
In Hong Kong, where people are crazy about Japanese food, you can find a number of restaurants that offers kaiseki cuisine.For example, Nadaman, is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong to offer the art of kaiseki (pictured below). Before you enjoy a kaiseki meal, let us go through a few steps to help you fully appreciate the beauty and formality of such an exquisite dining experience.
The setting
A kaiseki meal is usually enjoyed in a tatami room. Shoes are never worn in this private dining room and they are removed and left neatly at the entrance. One’s back must not be turned to the host when removing shoes. Japanese etiquette decrees that the right foot is used to make one’s entrance and care should be taken not to step on the binding of the matting. When leaving, use the left foot first.
Diners will be seated on the tatami flooring, cushions or legless chairs (zaisu), around a low rectangular table. It is recommended that ladies not wear tight-fitting skirts or dresses when sitting on tatami. To wait to be invited to sit by the host would be wise. The main guest will be seated with his or her back to the artistic decoration, opposite the host, as the decoration is considered a suitable backdrop for an honoured guest.
At the dining table
Japanese etiquette encompasses being respectful and considerate towards others. When presented with a hand-towel at the table, with which to wipe hands and mouth, the towel should be neatly folded after use, with the soiled section inwards, and placed tidily back on the towel-tray.
Before eating, it is usual for the Japanese host to say, “Itadakimasu:” (I am going to start eating now), often also placing both palms together at chest level and nodding his, or her, head gently once. Guests respond in a similar fashion. The host will begin the meal and then the guest-of-honour begins eating, followed by the others at the table.
Sashimi is generally included in a kaiseki meal, served with soya sauce and green wasabi. It is not customary to mix these two condiments together.
Soup is consumed directly from the individual bowl, using both hands. The prescribed manner involves picking up the soup-bowl using the right hand, then holding the bowl with the four fingers of both hands underneath and the thumbs resting on the top rim. The bowl is then gently placed on the fingers (not the palm) of the left hand, with the right hand around the bowl and thumb on the rim. Turn the bowl slightly to ensure that lips do not directly touch the printed design.
A rice bowl is held in the left hand at a low level; it is not lifted up to mouth level. No shells or other discarded items are placed on the table when eating Japanese-style. They are placed neatly on one’s individual plate.
When finished, chopsticks are placed in a horizontal position, near to the diner, with the eating ends to the left. All present at the table should endeavour to finish eating at about the same time.
After a meal, it is usual to say, “Gochisoo samadeshita” (I have had a nice meal) to one’s Japanese host, with a bow. It is not usual to take one’s leave immediately after a meal, but to linger and engage in conversation before departing.
Hong Kong's best kaiseki can be found at:
Wagyu Kaiseki Den
263 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan. Tel: +852 2851-2820.
Inakaya
Shop A, 101/F International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd, West Kowloon. Tel: +852 2972-2666.
Nadaman (Admiralty)
7/F Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Rd, Admiralty. Tel: 2820- 8570.
Nadaman (Tsim Sha Tsui)
Basement Level 2, Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: +852 2733-8751.
Sushi Sase
G/F Hilltop Plaza, 49 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2815 4077.
Unkai
3/F Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: +852 2396-1111.
Excerpts from Japanese Etiquette – A Matter Of Course by Raelene Tan, published by Landmark Books and printed in Appetite September 2011.
