Whisky-drinking is one of the more prominent trends to have arisen in Hong Kong in over the past few years, so much so that even Macallan has opened a branded whisky bar in the new Galaxy resort in Macau. As Langham Place opens its own Tokoro whisky bar, we sit down with their own whisky expert, Whisky Girl Joey Tsang, to find out more about the spirit.
Asia Tatler Dining: As one of HK's youngest sommeliers, what made you decide to become the Whisky Girl at Langham Place rather than specialising in wine?
Joey Tsang: I used to study wine but I've always been a fan of whisky. I wanted to try something new and it so happened that Langham Place wanted to open a whisky bar so I decided to switch over. Tasting wines and whiskies are quite similar, in the sense that you have to taste with your whole body, judging the drinks' appearance, smell, taste and aftertaste.
ATD: Drinking whisky is very fashionable right now, do you think this is a passing trend or is it here to stay?
JT: I think that the trend of drinking whisky right now is similar to the wine boom we experienced seven or eight years ago. Back then, not a lot of local people in Hong Kong drank wine, but now it has become a sort of cultural habit. Also, I think we are catching up, globally. In the West, beverages are very much a part of a meal: diners have an aperitif before a meal, a drink at the bar while they're waiting for a table, have drinks throughout the meal and then a digestif afterwards. In Hong Kong, we are still developing that aspect and drinking is mainly confined to happy hours on Friday after work. Ever since the ban of the wine tariff, drinking wine has really taken off in Hong Kong and I think people are ready for the next trend, which is drinking whisky.
ATD: For some of our readers who are new to whisky, could you explain what are some of the different types of whisky? How do they differ by region?
JT: American whiskies usually have a hint of vanilla and are sweeter and rounder, due to the barrels used there. Japanese whiskies are more straightforward and suited to local tastes and people like to pair them with Japanese cuisines, such as robatayaki. Scotch whiskies depend on the region, as each region has its own distinctive style. Here at Tokoro, we have a flavour map where whiskies are separated into four categories: light floral, fruity spicy, rich rounded and full-bodied smoky. Beginners should go for light floral whiskies such as Glenlivet 12 years, which is more delicate and easier to drink.
ATD: How do you tell a good whisky from an average one? Taste, notes, scent, colour-wise?
JT: For whisky, I would judge it more on the taste. Colours don't necessarily tell you much more than the style, whether they were aged in sherry oak barrels if they're darker or bourbon if they are lighter. If it is sherry oak, then they are usually rounder, with hints of apricot. Whiskies that are lighter in colour will probably have hints of coconut or vanilla.
ATD: What is the minimum number of years a whisky should be aged for? Is whisky necessarily better when older?
JT: Scotch whisky must be aged in Scotland for at least three years, that is the most specific criterion. When the whisky is in the barrel, the liquid will change as it ages, becoming smoother. Also, every year, 2% of the whisky will evaporate, which is known as angel's share. But once it is in the bottle, the whisky basically stops aging once it's reached forty to fifty percent alcohol. The number on the bottle indicates how many years the whisky has spent aging in the barrel.
ATD: What are some of the more unusual whiskys available at Tokoro?
JT: We have a 1982 from Glenmore, a distillery that closed down in 1986. I actually haven't had a chance to try it as no one has ordered it yet! We have over 80 labels on our list and plan to keep expanding. We also have whisky flights here such as the Speyside Experience with whiskies from Glenvlivet, Glenfiddich and Macallan; a flight featuring whiskies from different parts of Japan or even a vintage journey with Glenrothes from 1988 to 1998.
ATD: What are some foods that go with whisky?
JT: Single malt whiskies (pot still distillation, it comes from a single distillery and made from malted barley) go best with food. Bourbons can be a bit too sweet, so they're more suited to cocktails. Fruitier and spicier whiskies also go well with food, for example the Highland Park 12 years is a good match. It also depends what you're eating. Chocolates or robatayaki should be paired with a slightly smokier whisky. My personal favourite is Highland Park 18 years paired with wagyu beef cooked on the robata.
ATD: Is it only a matter of preference whether someone drinks whisky on the rocks or with soda; or are there certain whiskies that benefit from being colder or warmer?
JT: Usually, light floral whiskies are better with a small amount of ice while the full-bodied smoky whiskies are better at room temperature, at most with a few drops of still water. Blended whiskies are normally drunk with soda water. In Hong Kong, whisky cocktails are popular but I personally prefer my whiskies straight since that's the best way to really taste the flavours.
