The growing number of gourmet British dining options means diners are finally getting a better appreciation and understanding of this cuisine. There's the impressive gastro-pub, The Pawn, which is reinvigorating English classics with quality ingredients. Where else can you get to savour buttery soft centres of roasted bone marrows, or indulge in British style roasted suckling pigs? The new Bentley's in Soho is doing likewise with British seashore favourites, such as wholesome fish pies stuffed with a shopping list of foods from the sea. Plus there are new pubs cropping up left, right and centre, from Yorkshire Pudding to Trafalgar with dozens and dozens of imported British beers.
Compare this to, say, 10 or 20 years ago, when this scene was smaller and unfortunately, quite average. Co-founder of the Pawn, Alan Lo says, "Back then, it was dominated by English and Irish pubs focused on traditional British staples such as pie and mash, and fish n' chips. While the food may be tasty, the pub atmosphere and the beers were the most prominent features. Food was a complementary afterthought."
British chef David Shuttleworth, who was at the former Bentley's in Princes Building throughout the 1980s and 1990s, has just revived the brand in Soho two months ago. Having seen the city go through many epochs, he can think of one reason why British dining has improved lately: Importing quality ingredients from the UK is easier now. "Twenty years ago, it was difficult. I had to import all my fish from England and Holland, and I went to the airport to pick it up myself. My supplier would put the fish in the plane while I had to get health certificates, release forms and other papers just to deal with customs once the product arrives. This process would take hours but we had to do it often to keep seafood quality up; this was the only way back then!"
Shuttleworth says all has changed since and chefs are now spoilt for choice. "Suppliers set up their own [import and export] companies to do that for you - we just pay extra for that service. Now I don't have go to the airport to collect my ingredients." No question about it: Chefs and diners alike have benefited from the improved channel and traffic of food between Hong Kong and UK.
The Trendiest of Them All: The Pawn
Ever since The Pawn opened its doors last year, this dining-within-a-heritage-building has become the ‘it' place to go, especially with so many fawning write-ups from the media. Housed in a 19th century buliding, it's dripping with character. Step inside though and it feels like you're in a London gastropub with funky vintage chairs and tables, iconic Chesterfield leather sofas, plus an open terrace. When Britain was going through a food revolution in the 1990s, one of the major trends was gastropub (higher end version of British food), which you can now sample here.
Ideal Meals: Excellent classics like fish n' chips, and also meat-heavy English dishes that use every bit of the animal including offal bits. The Pawn pays homage to leading gastropubs in the UK like St Johns in London, famous for their ‘head-to-tail' cuisine, including a sought-after roasted bone marrow with parsley salad and rock salt. They do a similar version here that's best smeared all over bread (HK$75). Other must-try mouthwatering meat dishes: steak and kidney pies (HK$188), roasted suckling pigs (HK$240) and calf liver (HK$287).
Ideal For: Those eager to be current with what's fashionable in the dining scene. Impressive on culinary and aesthetic levels, this place wows and makes you want to tell all your friends about it, which explains why it's perpetually crowded.
62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai. Tel: +852 2866-3444; www.thepawn.com.hk
British Seashore Favourites: Bentley's Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar
Bentley's Executive Chef David Shuttleworth knows more than a thing or two about cooking quality British food. He's worked in a wealth of restaurants here and around the globe, even with UK's beloved celebrity chef Gary Rhodes during their stint at Sommerset's renowned Castle Restaurant. Shuttleworth is a master when it comes to seafood and since he's passionate about sourcing the top quality kind and cooking them well.
Ideal Meals: How many other places do fish pie stuffed with scallops, garoupa, salmon, cod and other seafood, plus green grapes for extra sweetness, all cloaked in a herby, creamy sauce. Spoon into the melted cheese and mash potato top to get to this seafood-rich centre. "It's back-to-basics food, just done even better," says Chef Shuttleworth. Also try their deep-fried white bait, flown in from England that's best washed down with their crisp and fruity Somerset cider called Dabinnet.
Ideal For: Impressing a foodie or other hard-to-please eaters; anyone who's a seafood sophisticate.
9 Elgin Street, Soho, Central. Tel: www.bentleysseafood.com
Hearty Pub Grub: Yorkshire Pudding
Their name says it all. The latest addition to Soho is being sought after for their menu of British classics, including puffy, golden Yorkshire puddings with lashings of gravy, best enjoyed with roast beef on Sundays.
Ideal Meals: Toad-in-a-hole, essentially sausages baked in a savoury pancake batter, is all about good pork. With four sausages to choose from, including the classic Cumberland variety, Yorkshire Pudding's version is true to English tradition—immersed in batter than baked until its billowy and crusty on top. Served with mash and a side of gravy, you can see plenty of expats here tucking into this British classic here.
Ideal For: Homesick British expats seeking comforting and above aveage pub grub. The after-work crowd flock to this venue for hearty comfort food whilst nursing pints of quality ales on tap.
6 Elgin Street, Central. Tel: +852 2536-9968.
Best On-the-Go: Chippys
Chippy's shabby and worn décor doesn't mean it's not worth a visit. A loyal favourite amongst British expats, this no frills ‘chip shop' along Pottinger Street has lasted nearly a decade thanks to their casual yet quality Anglo-comfort food.
Ideal Meals: Literally anything off their deep fryer, like the fish n' chips (starting at HK$90). There's four types— cod, plaice, halibut and sole—in beer batter and served with chunky chips British style, plus a side of mushy peas or baked beans. Also, try their fry ups. Most places in Hong Kong do a poor rendition of the English breakfast, with rubbery processed sausages. Not at Chippy, which fires up Cumberland sausages. Alongside eggs, bacon, grilled tomatoes, and mushrooms, plus a few slices of black pudding (blood sausages)—it's the full monty over here. And it's just HK$120.
Ideal For: Those on the go; this is also a takeaway spot. Whether you're a suited regular or part of the flips-flops crowd all are welcome to this unpretentious venue.
Basement, 51A, Wellington St., Central. Tel: +852 2523-1718; www.chippy.com.hk
