Our 48 hours of fine dining series has taken us to some of Asia's capitals, from Hong Kong to Bangkok to Hanoi. This week, we venture further afield and explore the vibrant food culture of Melbourne, one of the most impressive culinary hotspots we have experienced yet.
Friday night:
7pm: After a long flight (unless you're flying in from New Zealand), there is no better way to unwind and relax than having a drink at Siglo. Located on the rooftop of the legendary dining establishment Supper Club in Melbourne's theatre district, Siglo enjoys a beautiful view, thanks to the 156-year old Parliament building across the street. The terrace with its checked concrete squares and small café tables wouldn't look out of place in a typical Roman piazza. The bar serves wines and cigars mainly, with the wine list focused on the old world and there is also a snack menu for those who can't hold off until dinner.
Level 2, 161 Spring Street, Melbourne.
9pm: One of the most common complaints about Hong Kong is our lack of top-notch Spanish restaurants, with which we complete agree. That's why MoVida should definitely be every tapas-lover's first stop in Melbourne. Run by chef Frank Camorra, who was born in Barcelona before moving to Australia at the age of five, Camorra returned to Spain in 2000 to cook. When he returned in 2003, he opened MoVida to widespread critical acclaim, winning awards such as Dish of the Year and Chef of the Year from Melbourne's The Age Good Food Guide. There are daily specials but reliable standouts from the regular menu include a slow-cooked duck shank with hazelnuts, raisins and onions and a wagyu carpaccio with truffle foam and egg. For the indecisive, there is a 10-course degustation menu for AUS$60. Very difficult to book due to its popularity, it's a good thing that there are a few branches in the city called MoVida Next Door, MoVida Aqui and MoVida Terrazza (open only in the summer).
1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne.
11pm: Not only is Melbourne great for foodies, but its bar scene is also a sight to behold. One of our favourite bars is The Toff in Town. Silly name aside, the wine bar is absolutely beautiful, with a stage dominating one side of the bar. One of the The Toff's signature features is its row of train carriages, which function as mini private rooms. There are even doors on these old-fashioned carriages, plus blinds if complete privacy is desired. As a wine bar, naturally the wine list at The Toff is impressive, but be warned: the combination of the strong Australian dollar and Hong Kong's lack of wine duty may leave you reeling.
Level 2, Curtain House, 252 Swanston St., Melbourne.
Saturday:
9am: Melbourne has one of the strongest coffee cultures of any city outside of Europe, with cafes on literally every street in the city centre. One of the best cafes slash bistro in Melbourne is The European. Even if you had a late night, it is worth getting up for as The European starts serving delicious breakfasts at 7.30am and it fills up fast. The eggs Benedict are reliably good, of course, but diners should also take advantage of the restaurant's pan-European menu and try dishes such as the huevos madrilenos with black pudding and chorizo, or the Turkish poached eggs with baba ghanoush. On weekends, there is a brunch menu that starts at noon: one of our more decadent brunches there included half a dozen of the freshest Tasmanian oysters and a truffled duck liver parfait.
161 Spring Street, Melbourne.
1pm: Australia is a land of immigrants and Italians, in particular, have been immigrating to Australia since the 1840s. Although not quite that old, Pelligrini's has been around for the past half century and is one of Melbourne's most famous dining institutions. The full name of the restaurant is Pelligrini's Espresso Bar and that is exactly what it looks like. The long dining room is dominated by a bar where patrons perch on stationary red leather stools. It looks like any regular coffee bar in Italy, except that it serves pasta. The menu is written on a board and includes basic hearty pastas such as lasagna, penne with pesto and spaghetti bolognaise. It is definitely not fancy, modern or inventive. Rather, it is exactly what any Italian grandmother would whip up for dinner if you dropped by on a Sunday evening. Just make sure not to order a decaf coffee or anything with soy, these baristas are old-school.
66 Bourke Street, Melbourne.
7pm: Located in the boutique hotel The Prince by the beach at St. Kilda, Circa recently re-opened after a major refurbishment. Head chef Jake Nicolson makes the most of Australia's bountiful produce, creating seasonal menus that use unusual ingredients, rare breeds and heirloom vegetables. While the produce may be Australian, chef Nicolson takes inspiration from a number of different regions, including Asia, the Middle East or the Mediterranean. For example, an appetiser of grilled watermelon is served with Serrano jamon, almond milk and verjuice dressing, while a seafood main comes with pureed cauliflower, Vietnamese mint and black mint vinaigrette combining classic Asian elements with a local Australian snapper.
2 Acland St., Melbourne.
9pm: We love Melbourne's whimsical bars and two of our favourites are the Carlton Hotel (known to locals as the Carlton Club) and Madame Brussels. It is a good idea to start your night at Carlton Club as the décor is lurid and bright enough when sober. The walls are hung with whimsical birds including a stuffed emu with a pearl choker, there are neon chandeliers and psychadelic wallpapers spray-painted in felt. Huge booths are ideal for a cosy chat with friends, while smokers will appreciate the terrace with palm trees. Cocktails are inventive, for example, the Manuka Bazooka with manuka honey vodka mixed with chilli-infused tequila, cherry and lemon juice.
Speaking of inventive, Madame Brussels should amuse even the most jaded barfly. Not only is there Astroturf as carpeting, but there are also pink walls, outdoor furniture with floral pillows and waiters dressed as tennis players, except for obscenely short shorts. The perfect location to host your own Alice in Wonderland themed garden party, this is definitely a bar you won't find anywhere else.
Carlton Hotel: 193 Bourke St., Melbourne.
Madame Brussels: Level 3, 59-63 Bourke St., Melbourne.
Sunday:
Noon: Normally, we pig out at our hotel's breakfast buffets as much as the next person, but in this case we'd make an exception. Because Sunday lunches are best spent at Hellenic Republic, a fantastic Greek restaurant in the trendy neighbourhood of East Brunswick, and the portions are huge. Opened by George Calombaris, celebrity chef and judge of MasterChef Australia and manned by head chef Travis McAuley, Hellenic Republic is a bustling taverna filled with the enticing smells of meats roasting on spits and decorated with pictures of Calombaris' great-grandparents. The trapezi menu is perfect for sharing and offers a taste of every section of the menu, from small appetisers to fish, meat and desserts. The taramosalata is a revelation: instead of the usual coral colour, it is creamy white, as it is made with white cod roe. The Cypriot grain salad with freekah, coriander, almonds, lentils and yoghurt is good enough on its own, but is also a perfect counterpart to the slow-roasted lamb from the grill. Unfortunately, Victoria's state law forbids restaurants from letting diners take leftovers in doggie bags, as we can't imagine anything nicer than nibbling on some leftover meats on the long plane ride home.
434 Lygon St., Brunswick East.
